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#11
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I would get Allen head socket cap screws instead of those slotted screws they used from the factory.
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#12
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Success
I cut some screws that I had that were the right thread and width with my screw cutter. They worked.
Why would you recommend allen head socket cap screws RustyShackleford? Thanks for the help everyone!
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IH Cub Cadet 70, bought for $50, has Case fenders, several new parts got it running/driving, 2nd gear doesn’t work, currently rebuilding motor, 38” mower deck |
#13
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They’re just easier to install since you can pop them onto the end of the Allen key instead of weeble wobbling the slotted screw into position. When I rebuilt my K241 I replaced all of the slotted screws with socket cap screws (points & points cover, etc.). Just makes life a little bit easier.
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#14
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Oh, ok. Thanks for letting me know.
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IH Cub Cadet 70, bought for $50, has Case fenders, several new parts got it running/driving, 2nd gear doesn’t work, currently rebuilding motor, 38” mower deck |
#15
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It is explained in a different thread I posted a couple hours ago, but I am also missing my engine shroud/gas tank screws… Thanks for the help everyone with this!
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IH Cub Cadet 70, bought for $50, has Case fenders, several new parts got it running/driving, 2nd gear doesn’t work, currently rebuilding motor, 38” mower deck |
#16
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On my Onan and Koehlers I’ve used button headed screws, plus blue loctite . I like the way they stick in the Allen wrench . Less chance of dropping them into the carb.
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#17
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What I do is get the correct size screw with a nut for it, run the nut up to head of screw, put a dab of JB Weld on screw and thread it into the carb, once it sets up run nut down screw to carb and cut off the head of screw with my Dremel Tool and clean up the threads with the nut. Use Nyloc nuts and never had an issue with anything vibrating loose.
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