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#11
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The fuel line is not correct, should have no bends in it.
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Up to 530 and counting... I give up updating my profile! |
#12
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from the manual the 301 automatic compression release stops working at 650 rpm. so unless the engine spins at 650 you wont generate enough compression for the engine to start. The compression should be 110-120 psi and anything below 100psi warrants a "reconditioning" - I hate mice!
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#13
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Cash- I think you were right about not enough speed to start- this makes more sense to me now. And yes, Minion, my line looks odd. Does anyone have a photo or a diagram of a well-run fuel line? Like I said, I think I need a smaller filter. And I am unsure of whether to route the line along the inside or the outside of the throttle cable linkages. Thanks again.
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#14
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There should be all the filter you need in the tank now as part of the shut off valve.
I'd remove the tank and remove the valve w/the filter, clean and flush as may be needed, reinstall and ditch that extra filter that is mire or less redundant not to mention in the way. Clean and install a new kit in the carb along with it's new valve seat and valve, readjust and be done with it. When storing the tractor for long periods of time, merely shut off the fuel and run it until it quits. I do this every fall for any that I will not be using until spring and they always fire right up come spring. |
#15
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Thanks again everyone. The engine is running very well now. I eliminated the large fuel filter and replaced it with one of those very small B&S reg filters. They are smaller than an Oreo cookie. I don't want to mess with the tank and petcock filter this season- maybe next. The smaller fuel filter allowed the fuel line to run more directly.
The practice of running a carb bowl until empty was mentioned. I do this in our portable generator, but I guess I use the 129 to haul winter runs of firewood sometimes, so that bowl never gets drained. |
#16
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I shut off the petcock on my machines every time I park them for the day. I hate being ready to get to work and finding my fuel has run through the carb and filled the block. I've had to do more oil changes on my machines over the years than I care to admit because of that, so I shut that thing and let it run out of fuel to shut itself off every time.
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169 with tiller, 50C mower deck, Earthcavator, 42" front blade, Brinly tt100 toolbar, and QA42A snowblower, and now an Original! |
#17
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Mouse troubles
One other option would be to raise the front of the tractor so the carb is higher than the tank. Try parking it on a slope to see if this works until you figure out what is really the problem.
I replaced the carb on my 1450 and that solved a problem similar to yours. I’m guessing it was the float that was giving me the trouble. |
#18
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All good now- running great. I do appreciate everyone's advice. It was either the mouse nests slowing down the flywheel, or maybe a plugged fuel filter. It now has no mouse nests, and a very small B and S fuel filter- I know, some folks don't use aux fuel filters.
Regarding fuel in an engine- I have never has fuel trickle down past the carb while the tractor sat. That would be a pain. And yes, I keep the petcock closed, but I do not often run the float bowl dry. It's a cheaply built carb, but its been okay for five years of rugged use. |
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k301, mice |
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