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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
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#11
04-18-2011, 06:00 PM
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Have you checked the ammeter? I think someone in here was saying theirs was bad and was causing starting issues?
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DWayne 1973: 128, ag tires, 3pt. lift, spring assist, lights, 42" Deck 10" moldboard plow 2016 XT1 42" deck 18HP 
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#12
04-19-2011, 09:38 AM
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You did clean and check your points? Leave the cover off and see if you are getting a spark there if not you may have a bad coil. Pull off your connections to the ignition switch and put a jumper between the contacts and see if that works.Just don't leave them connected all night.fry your coil it will.
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Up to 533 and counting... I give up updating my profile!
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#14
05-28-2011, 07:14 PM
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Still no spark
Ok I have checked everything I can think of and did replace the coil, but to no avail. I still have no spark. I did noticed that I have 12 volts to the coil until I crank it and then the voltage drops to 5 volts. I have jumped the ignition switch, but still no spark. Cleaned the point and re-gaped them, but did not replace them. I am stumped at this point. Anyone have any ideas I may have missed?
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#16
05-28-2011, 11:21 PM
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He said he did not replace the points just cleaned them.
You should put in a new set,check the wire to the points for cracked insulation..Also try a new spark plug wire. Are you having fun yet? It took me 2 days to figure out on mine it was the push button switch.
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Up to 533 and counting... I give up updating my profile!
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#17
05-29-2011, 12:37 AM
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Ahhh, I thought I had seen where he had replaced almost everything. This CRS is getting much worse lately...
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DWayne 1973: 128, ag tires, 3pt. lift, spring assist, lights, 42" Deck 10" moldboard plow 2016 XT1 42" deck 18HP
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#18
05-29-2011, 04:41 AM
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Not to be redundant but these things seem to have a very resilient ignition system and as long as everything is hooked up right it should get spark. You said you checked for spark. when you did did you take the plug out, completely hooked up and on, ground the plug to the engine block where you can observe the gap visually, yourself, and in shade so you can see the spark if it's there. then crank the engine. If you are going to get spark you will see it. (again not to be redundant, but they seldom go bad in the ignition system I just pulled one from a horse field after sitting for 13 years and the ignition system worked fine. )
Only other thing is to make sure you have the coil hooked up right. negative to the condenser and points, positive to the battery side. My dad's was hooked up backwards and he got no spark, flipped it and it worked. Also know that when you turn the engine over you will always get a drop in voltage, than is normal because you are running a huge starter generator. if this is not the problem then I would take the condenser to automotive store and ask them to test it, that is the only other thing I can think of. all you need for the ignition to run right is a battery, coil, points, condensor, spark plug and wire. you could also try having the auto store (autozone or orileys) test the plug and wire for continuity. Should be a simple problem, dont over think it. 
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#19
05-05-2012, 03:21 PM
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Running
I want to thank everyone for your help. I did get the tractor running and it took rebuilding the Carb and cleaning all the electrical connections, Once I did that it turned over and started. It now starts on first try. The question is should I restore it or just use it the way it is??????
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