IH Cub 129 K301a Timing

[cc_bob]

They look like cooling fans for a PC.

[jsoluna]

You are correct, Bob. They're gettin me by until I can get a new fan for the driveshaft (thinking whole new driveshaft actually). Salvaged the switch from a broken handheld sweeper, and they are two case fans for a PC. Was leary about screwing into the original metal, but she's a worker, not a looker. And I'd rather help cool the hydro. They flow quite well, and I'm thinking of leaving them on when I get a new driveshaft fan just to help keep it cool.

[hydrocub]

OK ...you had me scratching my head for a moment and I can't spare the hair

[gcbailey]

that's awesome using 80mm case fans!!!! Now I know what I can do with the 30-40 I got laying around.

[1eleven]

I started out working on engines when points, or battery ignition were king of the spark makers. And I felt the same way about magnetos as you do about points. With points the main thing about installing a new set is clean clean clean don't get anything on the point contacts at all and the last thing you do before starting the engine is get a clean piece of heavy paper Printer paper or such and cut a strip I like to cut it wide enough to fold it double and when the points are closed open them up with your finger nail and insert the paper between the contacts and pull back and forth a few times to remove anything that could be contaminating the contacts this will ensure that nothing is preventing them from making good electrical contact. If reusing old points clean them first with starting fluid as this stuff doesn't leave any residue. Then check them for pitting if it is to bad do not reuse, if not to bad use point file or 400 sand paper to clean up the pits. Also if pitted to bad your condenser is bad, so replace it also. Points last a long time, In a car it was recommended to change them every 10,000 miles that means on a 6 cylinder engine traveling at 60 mph they opened and closed approximately 90,000,000 times in 10,000 miles.

when timing these Kohler engines with a timing light it's a lot easier to see whats going on if you do this first. Turn the engine over by hand until the S is aligned with the line at TDC then get a piece of masking tape stick it on the rotating part of the fan debris screen and the flywheel cover then put a felt tip line through the middle of the tape from the screen to the cover then cut it in half between the screen and cover and you have a TDC mark you can see real easy. Then hook up the timing light start the engine see where your timing is at, now you can adjust the timing as the engine is running by leaving the points hold down screws just snug and move points with a screwdriver and as you move the points you can watch the timing change and when the lines on the tape line up turn off the engine and tighten up screws. Then start and recheck the timing again when done there is no need to worry about the point gap at all.
Carbon build up can be eliminated by adding Marvel Mystery oil to the gas and run as usual it will in time clean up and keep clean the carbon away

[Matt G.]

I'd lose the case fans when you get the real thing...they can't move anywhere near enough air to cool the trans, and they can't do much anyway where you have them located. They'll also fill with grass and other debris very quickly.

[jsoluna]

1Eleven - Thanks very much for the in-depth play by play on adjusting with a timing light - the tape trick is something I would not have thought of! I've cleaned the points a few times, actually every time I've adjusted them over the past few weeks (at least 10+). It's hard to really see the mating surfaces of the points, so I just clean em every time I'm in there, and actually did use Starting Fluid to wash the assembly down as you suggested before reassembly.

So, next on the chopping block - timing light and removing valve cover to check valve clearances. Ran the 129 for 3+ hours straight yesterday, mowed through a hay field with grass up to my waist. It ran well, had good power, and only had a misfire when I'd disengage the PTO, or coast the engine - basically with it not under a load it will miss a little. Also, to eliminate any fuel delivery issues, I'm going to repair the throttle shaft with the bushing - as it is now I rigged it up with a rubber washer from a faucet that I bored the I.D. out with a drill to fit nicely around the shaft, then lubed a little to reduce friction. It works, but I'd rather do it right.

The cooling fans do help a little, but I would rather get the real thing. Changed fluid and filter when I first got it too. Used JT-5 since it was all I had access to. Previous owner was a JohnDeere tech and used all JohnDeere parts and fluids - I wasn't havin any o that!
Thanks for the advice guys

[cmatthew]

having the same timing problem with my 123. this should help

[william1041200]

So, has anyone found a sheared flywheel key yet? Or has anyone with this issue tried a timing light yet? I have the same issue, and would love to know if a timing light sets light on the situation. As I stated earlier, or on my own thread, I had to bend the points to get into range and that was with a new plunger, points, condenser, clean combustion chamber, new head gasket and smooth as glass head. I checked valve timing- mine is right on, and not worn bad on points cam. Im kinda thinking Kohler had a boo boo as it seems more and more of us are turning up here. Mine times correct at the t mark, on a 301 out of a 124.

[jsoluna]

Ahah! Maybe I'm not crazy! It really does not want to run well at the S, the closer to the T it gets, the better.

Timing light diagnostics results to come.....