Kohler k241a Rebuild

[Bigsauce]

Originally Posted by dvogtvpe

NEVER USE ANTI SIEZE INSIDE A MOTOR
just use clean engine oil of the type you plan to run. I don't really care for assembly lube in a splash lube engine but I know people use it and don't seam to have problems.

Good thing I asked, I thought I read that somewhere before too.

[Bigsauce]

I had some time to work on the block today, I pressed in the pto side block bearing and the rear main seal. I also installed the valve springs and tappets along with the camshaft, just have to check camshaft end play before pushing the pin all the way in. Is there a certain way to install the valve springs, do they have a proper orientation? Its not stated in the kohler manual and a quick search turned up nothing but I thought I read it before somewhere. Hoping someone here can chime in.

[ol'George]

Originally Posted by Bigsauce

Good thing I asked, I thought I read that somewhere before too.

Anti size is good for spark plugs exterior shafts, pulley etc as stated.
Do assy an engine with say 30W engine oil on rings/piston, cam, crank etc. just no sense starting things dry.
On these little engines I like to fill the crankcase with oil, then roll them over like you were making a snow ball, just one time, that insures that things inside are coated before instillation in chassis.
You don't want to start things dry, it only takes a minute, and sometimes it is a while before you lite it up and the oil inside is just a good idea.
It is a proven fact the most damaging thing that happens to an engine is cold startups as there is little lube left on wear surfaces.
much worse is if no lube is present on a dry assy.
Good luck.

[ol'George]

Originally Posted by OldSkull

Third option: Weld or have someone welding the damage key way and ask your machine shop to cut back the shaft to spec and broach a new key way. You can do it yourself too, I did it on a 1.9L diesel VW who are inclined to have crank sprocket issue.

Broach

Just a quick clarification, the broaches pictured are for bored holes, say like in a pulley/sprocket, not for a shaft.
A shaft usually has a keyway milled in it with a mill cutter or woodruff cutter depending on the keyway needed.

[olds45512]

as the others have said give everything a good coat of oil as your assembling it so it doesn't start dry, i usually use straight 30wt.

[Bigsauce]

I will definitely coat everything with oil. Now I was thinking I was gonna paint the block once assembled but now I'm thinking I should paint it now since the bearing plate will be in the way once assembled. I'm gonna pickup paint/primer at sherwin Williams.

[Bigsauce]

Update:
I painted the flywheel shroud, generator bracket, and pto clutch with primer. I am going to sand some other parts and prime them also this week.

Does anyone have any tips on painting the engine block? I bought yellow paint from Sherwin Williams but the employee said that its probably not a good idea to use any paint other than high heat paint as it will come off. Any opinions on that? I was planning on painting the cooling fins with high heat black paint and the block with regular yellow enamel. Would the yellow enamel paint burn off or crack from the heat?

[J-Mech]

Not likely. They weren't painted with anything special from the factory.

[Bigsauce]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

Not likely. They weren't painted with anything special from the factory.

Great, I'll push ahead with painting it then.

[Bigsauce]

Anyone have experience with stens pistons/rings? The kit I bought came with 4 rings plus an expander ring. It seems that two of my rings have the same shape/ cut out indent on the inside of the ring but one is chrome and the other is black. The instructions say they should be different shapes. I'll try to take some photos if the camera can focus on the ring. I don't have much experience with piston rings so any ideas will be greatly appreciated.