The Haunted 129 -_- - Page 10

adamo · #91 02-07-2016, 06:59 PM

Short of a solution, taking offers. Cub is in Cape Cod MA.

budscub · #92 02-07-2016, 07:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by adamo

I thought it might be the first section of battery cable. So, using jumper cables, I disconnected hot at battery and jumped from battery + to hot lead on solenoid. Still clicked. So, I think that eliminates 1). But I might be missing something because I'm not really good at all of this so let me know. 2) Solenoid is brand new. Makes same click with old or new solenoid attached. BTW old solenoid is 1 month old and the new one is 2 weeks old. new from store
3) If I disconnect lead from solenoid so S/G at the solenoid and run jumpers from disconnected battery to that lead it turns over.
4) I took off the negative battery cable and cleaned terminal ends, and removed bolt from frame and and cleaned that as well then put back. I also using jumpers connected the negative from battery to engine block, then to ground at the s/g- all same result.

Thanks for the information Adam, I really want to solve this for you. I understand your frustration with though, But it cannot defeat us. LOL,
SO now from your information above:

#3 with the cable disconnected from the solenoid, when you jumped to the disconnected end the starter spins. That's a good thing.
Now with the cable you disconnected from the solenoid reconnected, jump across the two big post with and old screw driver.
1) there should be sparks fly
2) the starter should spin

If that doesn't make it spin
you have either a poor cable between the solenoid and the battery, or the battery is weak in amperage, ( I say this because the battery can easily produce 12v but not enough amperage

I know you said you put the booster cables in the circuit in place of that first section of cable, but I seem to always need to shake and scrap to make booster cables work when boosting automobiles.

I would at least go to walmart in the battery section and get a short battery cable. It's only a few bucks, and may save your tractor from a decision you may regret.

Keep me posted on your progress. Just wish I were closer we would solve this thing.

adamo · #93 02-07-2016, 07:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by budscub

Thanks for the information Adam, I really want to solve this for you. I understand your frustration with though, But it cannot defeat us. LOL,
SO now from your information above:

#3 with the cable disconnected from the solenoid, when you jumped to the disconnected end the starter spins. That's a good thing.
Now with the cable you disconnected from the solenoid reconnected, jump across the two big post with and old screw driver.
1) there should be sparks fly
2) the starter should spin

If that doesn't make it spin
you have either a poor cable between the solenoid and the battery, or the battery is weak in amperage, ( I say this because the battery can easily produce 12v but not enough amperage

I know you said you put the booster cables in the circuit in place of that first section of cable, but I seem to always need to shake and scrap to make booster cables work when boosting automobiles.

I would at least go to walmart in the battery section and get a short battery cable. It's only a few bucks, and may save your tractor from a decision you may regret.

Keep me posted on your progress. Just wish I were closer we would solve this thing.

Thanks Gary. Will try battery cables. I did do the screw driver across big posts trick- there was a spark- but starter would not go. When I ran the positive from the battery with jumper cables to the s/g- with everything else connected- it still did not turn s/g. S/g only turned when I had clean lead from the same battery with jumpers to the s/g. If I left the battery cables connected and if I left the cables connected to the F and A terminals on the S/G it would not spin.

twoton · #94 02-07-2016, 07:26 PM

Where on the Cape? I'm in Dartmouth.

adamo · #95 02-07-2016, 07:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twoton

Where on the Cape? I'm in Dartmouth.

In Sandwich.

budscub · #96 02-07-2016, 08:10 PM

Just from the fact that it began working this last time, after all the trouble shooting, We know it will work. I still believe we have a weak connection somewhere. Had you been able to start it anymore since the last time it miraculously started to work? Just for giggles you might try to pull on and wiggle that cable from the battery while you have it jumped with the screw driver, also feel along the length of it for any warm spots while it is jumped out.

budscub · #97 02-08-2016, 09:00 PM

I been thinking on this one. Did I read that it spins when you jump to it only when the wires are removed from the generator, but not when they are connected?
If this is true, remove the wire from the A terminal, turn the key on an check the "A' post on the generator. Do this while holding the key in the starting position. There should not be voltage present. IF we have voltage there we have an issue with the regulator side or the equation.
I just want to confirm we are not getting voltage feeding back through the " f" terminal.

Where did you get your voltage regulator?

Reason I ask this is there are "A" type regulators. these control the charging by grounding the "F" terminal in a controlled manor.
And these are the correct type for these starter generator systems.

Then there are "B" type regulator that actually supply voltage to the "F" terminal. If you put a type "b" regulator on it it is very possible that is why it shows 12 volt on the cable but does not crank.
This make a little more sense in that it spins when the wires are removed but not while they are connected.

Keep me posted.

adamo · #98 02-08-2016, 09:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by budscub

I been thinking on this one. Did I read that it spins when you jump to it only when the wires are removed from the generator, but not when they are connected?
If this is true, remove the wire from the A terminal, turn the key on an check the "A' post on the generator. Do this while holding the key in the starting position. There should not be voltage present. IF we have voltage there we have an issue with the regulator side or the equation.
I just want to confirm we are not getting voltage feeding back through the " f" terminal.

I have not tried this but will in the morning. Good thought! I'm not sure if the voltage regulator would send signal to the F terminal intermittently or maybe not enough to shut off the cub but slow the crank? But you are right, that is what I had to do each time to get it to turn. However a new problem has arose. I saw today that the starter generator A terminal was loose, probably from all the fussing with it lately. So I tried to turn it over with the battery and jumper cables with the wire leads removed and it did NOT start this time. I moved it around a little while and then I saw a spark, and then it worked. So I attached the A terminal lead from the tractor to it (without the F terminal connected and it began to turn over, and with ease I might add. Almost started, but I shut key off quick because gas tank was laying on top of the engine ( I removed to get at the wires by solenoid again). I re attached gas tank and F connector and then it just went click. I again wiggled the A terminal and then again removed the tractor lead to the A terminal and and the F terminal and it again clicked at first. After some time a spark occurred and then it turned again, again almost starting. Re attached Both A and F terminals and tractor struggled to turn over, but did just enough to start. I plowed the driveway today. Pulled it back into the garage, shut it off, then tried to restart. Just a click. Removed the F terminal and A terminal again- this time I could not get it to spark again and can't get it to restart. So, I'm guessing that once I either figure out how to repair the starter generator or replace it, I can then do the test of the F terminal. I have a little volt meter, I could check if any voltage is going to the F terminal while idle? Or when turning the key?

Quote:

Reason I ask this is there are "A" type regulators. these control the charging by grounding the "F" terminal in a controlled manor.
And these are the correct type for these starter generator systems.

Then there are "B" type regulator that actually supply voltage to the "F" terminal. If you put a type "b" regulator on it it is very possible that is why it shows 12 volt on the cable but does not crank.
This make a little more sense in that it spins when the wires are removed but not while they are connected.

Keep me posted.[/QUOTE]

I am not certain which voltage regulator I have, but I know I have the one that has an L terminal unused. only the top two are connected. I think I took a pic and it is in the thread somewhere.

budscub · #99 02-08-2016, 09:57 PM

So it does spin with the field wire removed. So I now believe you have a B circuit regulator on the tractor, and here is what is happening.
With the F terminal connected to a "B" circuit regulator, you are supplying current to the Field winding at the same time you are supply power to the starter side wiring, If this is the case when you supply power on the field coil it acts as a magnetic brake and keeps the armature from turning.

adamo · #**100** 02-08-2016, 10:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by budscub

So it does spin with the field wire removed. So I now believe you have a B circuit regulator on the tractor, and here is what is happening.
With the F terminal connected to a "B" circuit regulator, you are supplying current to the Field winding at the same time you are supply power to the starter side wiring, If this is the case when you supply power on the field coil it acts as a magnetic brake and keeps the armature from turning.

It didn't spin with the F terminal connected before, although like I said It did start today though with the F terminal connected. The speed at which is started was much slower than when I only had the A terminal connected. I think you are on to something though. However, like I mentioned in the previous post, I may have damaged or ruined the S/G as of today because the A post is wiggly and will not turn even with the F terminal disconnected.