What did you do to your Cub today?

[darkminion_17]

York raked the driveway with the 72.

[rsshallop]

Last week I got around to starting my 108 for the first time this year. I ran it for about 20 minutes before the linkage from the carburetor throttle lever to the governor lever lost it's retainer clip. Got a replacement clip from an auto supply store in town and proceeded to put it back together and then parked it. Anyway, ever since I got my 108 up and running last year, I never was sure of how high the RPMs were at full throttle. I've never heard a K series Kohler run before this one, but once I got it running well, I always suspected it was running a little too strong. That played on my mind over the winter, so I bought a laser RPM gauge and today got around to using it. As it turns out the top end RPMs came in at 3785, which I understand is too much for this engine. To correct this I moved the governor spring up one hole in the governor lever. That brought the top end RPM down to 3468 (1133 at idle) and I'm pretty happy with that. I know it should be at 3600, but it's running smooth, not surging or missing and now a have a better idea of how these engines should sound. When I lost the retainer clip last week, I procured a governor assembly off of ebay. The hole in the governor lever I'm using is wallowed and the governor spring is pretty bent up, so at some point my 108 is getting these replacement ebay parts. First though, I have to revisit my steering linkage and that means the engine will have to come back out (probably next week). I rushed to get this machine operational last year and this year I'm not happy with the slop in the steering.

[darkminion_17]

I see you are missing the hi rpm engine stop, but in the other picture you got one, that is how you adjust the top speed of 3600rpm.

[rsshallop]

Thank you darkminion_17 for the heads up. I plan on spending time with my machine this summer and I will definitely look into what I'm missing on the governor linkage and how to make the adjustment to 3600 RPM so the engine can run to full potential. First though, I'm going to work on tighten up my steering. It needs it badly.

[finsruskw]

Replaced the leaky differential gasket on the 1450 and repainted the lower 3 point hangers and drawbar.

[finsruskw]

Also did a photo shoot of my 108 that I put up on C/L tonite

[rsshallop]

Great looking 108 finsruskw. I bet it runs better than it looks and that would be a tall order.

I have been doing some work on the steering on my 108 over the last several days. Last week I took the engine out to get at the front axle. It was pretty sloppy in the front frame channel that it sits in and needed to be tightened as drglinski and others on this site have described. Anyway, I have chosen to use the bolt method that RCristensen laid out. I had to drive a few miles to find a 3/4"-16 bolt with a half size Jam Nut and today had a friend with a lathe cut the head down to 1/4". I cut the length of the bolt myself using a hack saw and regular nut as a guide at the front end. Replaced the pivot pin, tightened it up and it made a huge difference. I rebuilt the steering column last year, but I found that the Cam Follower needed to be tweaked tighter. Other than that, the bushings all around do have play and should be replaced. I have chosen to just re-pack everything with grease for now. The steering seems reasonable. Firm and smooth, not binding. About a one finger groove of play in the steering wheel and I'm guessing that's in the linkage, not the areas I have addressed. Anyway, I'm going to wait until I can get some help to put the engine back in. I took it out myself with the come-along and that was a pain. With that extra 1/4" bolt head sitting in the engine cradle, I'm not sure if I should back off the clutch and drivetrain. When I rebuilt my engine a few years ago, I used the full length dipper on the connecting rod and that required the deep sump oil pan. I don't want to end up in a fight with the clutch disk and the pins on the drive plate to get the engine in.

[rsshallop]

I went ahead and put the engine back in my 108 today on my own. At first I tried to do it without dropping the clutch assembly, but found it too tight a fit to get in. Once I dropped and backed off the clutch, it was pretty easy to get in.

[Farmall450]

Disked with the 782 a bit this morning. Put the right pin in the brinly adapter lift straps.

[olds45512]

Drained the gas out off the 100 and 108 and got them both running for the first time in a few years.