The Haunted 129 -_-

[Yosemite Sam]

Ok, 101 posts and still no closer to getting the problem fixed than we were in the first post. So lets stop dickin around and do something constructive.

Jumper cables from your truck (with the engine running).

Remove wire from "F" terminal on S/G, Pos jumper cable to "A" terminal on S/G, neg jumper cable to the S/G housing.

S/G should spin, if it does, then connect neg cable to one of the bolts that hold the S/G to its bracket. S/G should spin. If it does not then there is NO ground. So remove S/G and clean the points where the bracket and the S/G contact each other, all 4 of them.

If the S/G does spin, disconnect the Pos cable at the solenoid and touch it to the pos jumper cable. S/G should spin. If it does not, then the cable or connection is faulty.

If it does spin, reattach the cable to the solenoid and connect jumper cable to the other large terminal on the solenoid. Then, using a heavy wire, touch it to the pos jumper cable and to the small terminal on the solenoid, solenoid should click and s/g should spin. If it does not, solenoid or connection is faulty.

If it does spin, disconnect pos wire from tractor battery and clamp it in the jumper cable. Then using the same heavy wire as before jump from battery side of solenoid to small terminal on solenoid. S/G should spin, if it does not the battery cable from battery to solenoid is bad or has a bad connection or it has a bare spot that is touching the frame somewhere.

If it does spin, reconnect the small wire to the solenoid and try starting with the key. S/G should spin, if it does not, the ignition switch or a connection is faulty or the small wire or it's connection is faulty or one of the safety switches or their connections are faulty.

If all is well THEN connect the neg jumper cable to the neg battery cable and turn key. S/G should spin, if it does not, then you have no ground.

If it does spin, then reconnect neg cable back to battery and attach jumper cables to battery pos and battery neg posts and turn key again. S/G should spin.

I do understand that even this kind of electricity is difficult if you've never been into it before. NONE of the other wires on the tractor are of any consequence unless the wire going from the "BAT" terminal on the VR to the ignition switch is grounded to the frame somewhere. Electricity follows a path and the positive side can not be disrupted by touching anything that is ground.

I personally believe that you have a bare wire touching something metal, you have a bad ground or a faulty ignition switch/connection and I'm very dissapointed that you are willing to walk away from what could be the best piece of lawn and garden that you will ever own, without putting up more of a fight.

[J-Mech]

I don't think it's a regulator issue. Pretty simple test to see if that is what is happening. Just unhook the wire on the F terminal and try to start it.


Sounds like you have an issue in the S/G. You never said you were unhooking the wires to it when you used a battery to jump it. Take the S/G off and take the end off of it. Fix the wire, clean the commutator and replace the brushes if necessary. Or, take the whole tractor to a mechanic and get it fixed. This is turning into a circus. I never thought that this was a difficult issue, just difficult to test when jumping around like this. 15 people each pulling 15 different directions. This will be my last post in this thread.



IF he had the incorrect regulator installed, the engine should crank as soon as the key is turned to the ON position. It's not doing that, so I think we can rule that one out.


I think it was Alvy who asked in a post that I didn't see until now, what the amp draw is of the DC light compared to the load it takes to spin the S/G. Well.... I don't know the exact answer, but I can guess. IF you have ever had a voltage regulator stick and crank the engine over, you know that the little wires on the regulator WILL crank the engine over. Also, someone posted a YouTube video of some guy using a (I think it was) 18ga wire to start one. Soooooo..... although I don't suggest using 18ga wire as starter wire, it will handle the amps required for a short period. So, I'm going to say around 10 amps will crank it. The light.... 3 amps. The light would have dimmed if the S/G was trying to crank and it couldn't.

OP:
You have found the issue! Congratulations! You have a bad connection on the internal wire on the "A" terminal of the S/G. Take it apart and fix it! Judging by all the wiring and rewiring you have done, I wouldn't be shocked if you still have more issues. Spend $120 and buy a wiring harness from member Mlamar on this site. He builds and sells them.

Selling this cub because you can't fix it is like selling a house because it has mice. There are people who can, maybe you should find a local small engine mechanic.

[adamo]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

I don't think it's a regulator issue. Pretty simple test to see if that is what is happening. Just unhook the wire on the F terminal and try to start it.


Sounds like you have an issue in the S/G. You never said you were unhooking the wires to it when you used a battery to jump it. Take the S/G off and take the end off of it. Fix the wire, clean the commutator and replace the brushes if necessary. Or, take the whole tractor to a mechanic and get it fixed. This is turning into a circus. I never thought that this was a difficult issue, just difficult to test when jumping around like this. 15 people each pulling 15 different directions. This will be my last post in this thread.



IF he had the incorrect regulator installed, the engine should crank as soon as the key is turned to the ON position. It's not doing that, so I think we can rule that one out.


I think it was Alvy who asked in a post that I didn't see until now, what the amp draw is of the DC light compared to the load it takes to spin the S/G. Well.... I don't know the exact answer, but I can guess. IF you have ever had a voltage regulator stick and crank the engine over, you know that the little wires on the regulator WILL crank the engine over. Also, someone posted a YouTube video of some guy using a (I think it was) 18ga wire to start one. Soooooo..... although I don't suggest using 18ga wire as starter wire, it will handle the amps required for a short period. So, I'm going to say around 10 amps will crank it. The light.... 3 amps. The light would have dimmed if the S/G was trying to crank and it couldn't.

OP:
You have found the issue! Congratulations! You have a bad connection on the internal wire on the "A" terminal of the S/G. Take it apart and fix it! Judging by all the wiring and rewiring you have done, I wouldn't be shocked if you still have more issues. Spend $120 and buy a wiring harness from member Mlamar on this site. He builds and sells them.

Selling this cub because you can't fix it is like selling a house because it has mice. There are people who can, maybe you should find a local small engine mechanic.

Good small engine guys around here willing to work on a 45 year old rider mower are hard to find.
I made a point to return everything back to the previous set since nothing worked but yeah that is a possibility.
Now all I have to do is research how to repair the wire in the "A" terminal.
Thanks for the info on the wiring harness.

[amy3588]

Find a medium and have them come out to see the cub and see what they say. I have a feeling that after they finish what they need to do things might start looking good for it to run once again. Just a suggestion but its something I have done for many years in the paranormal.

[twoton]

Originally Posted by Yosemite Sam

Jumper cables from your truck (with the engine running).

Remove wire from "F" .......

That's a great write up Mark, thanks for taking the time to put that together.

Originally Posted by adamo

Now all I have to do is research how to repair the wire in the "A" terminal.

Maybe you should take the S/G to someone that specializes in electric motor repairs. Being on Cape there must be someone around.. If not maybe you gonna have to take a drive over the bridge to New Bedford;

http://www.northernelectricmotors.com/

I've had them fix stuff for me before, they do good work.

[Sam Mac]

Maybe this group can solve your problem.

http://www.talkparanormal.com/

[R Bedell]

Ok, 101 posts and still no closer to getting the problem fixed than we were in the first post. So lets stop dickin around and do something constructive.

AMEN....this has gone on way too far.

[adamo]

I don't want this thread to continue either, so if there is a delete option I'd do it but I don't see one. But I did want to say thank you to everyone who did make an effort to try to help me diagnose the issue. I was referred to this site because of folks like you who have helped others in the past. This 129 was a gift from my granfather and sentimental to me which is why I have spent 5 times on it as much as the current market value to attempt to repair. With no guys around who repair small engines, this site was my last attempt.

And for those of you who voiced frustration with this thread, I can only imagine YOUR frustration of reading about my tractor still not running. I mean it's not like you had the option to go to other threads, right? To be fair I shouldn't have voiced my frustration on this thread either, but again I was the one with the problem. Also, all I was doing was what everyone suggested and reporting back what I did. With that said, I wish you the best with your cubs.

[V30crewcab]

Sorry you haven't been able to figure it out. hope you find someone to help you with it and get it going again. its probably something simple being overlooked.

[Yosemite Sam]

Is there no one from Massachusetts, that can stop by and help this fella out?

I really don't want to see him give up his Grandfathers 129...