1864 cleanup, test drive, and leak found

[Mike McKown]

Either fix that Sunstrand rear end or get another one and put the PS on your 1641. You will love it.

I have one set up that way and actually like it better than the 1864's due to the smoother Vanguard engine.

[sorner]

Originally Posted by Mike McKown

Either fix that Sunstrand rear end or get another one and put the PS on your 1641. You will love it.

I have one set up that way and actually like it better than the 1864's due to the smoother Vanguard engine.

I thought about that but I'm good with what I have, I didn't notice THAT much difference with power steering. I did notice the Kohler is much heavier than the Vanguard, but I think it's quieter when mowing. I hear a little bit of the engine and a little bit of the deck and a lot of grass crying as it's getting slaughtered. I'm not plowing or blowing with it, if I was I would lean toward the power steering. Also, no power steering means one less thing to need seals or hoses fixed.

[sorner]

Originally Posted by Sam Mac

Here's the deal, you jack it up, drain it, disconnect the trans linkage, remove 4 bolts for the drive shaft, remove 6 bolts that hold the front mounts, remove 4 bolts that go through the frame and axle tubes, disconnect the brakes, remove the frame end plate 4 bolts and take that off then roll the rear out. 4 bolts hold the pump on. Take them out, pull the pump scrap the old cork gasket off. Replace the gasket and reinstall the pump. Remove the brakes, 2 bolts on each side. Remove the rear cover 9 bolts. Pop the C-clips in the center of the diff and pull the axels out. Remove the C-clip that retain the seals if you have the external C-clips (some are on the out side some are behind the seals) remove the seals. Remove the axle tube bolts 4 bolts on each side remaining because you have already removed the 4 that held it in the frame. Pop the tubes off and clean up the mess that will be inside them. Drill a 3/8" hole in the bottom of the case for an oil drain on each side of the case. Clean and reassemble in reverse order. Here is the parts list you will need and cost.

Transaxle seals and gaskets

921-3004 gasket 1 cork gasket $5.33 $5.33
721-3014 gasket 2 carrier gaskets $6.50 ea $13.00
921-3020A seal 2 axle seals $6.11 ea $12.22
921-3015 gasket 1 rear cover $7.64 $7.64
$38.19

Well, I have taken two cuts with the 18HP on the 1641, and I decided I miss the power steering. The 18HP adds some weight to the front end and it's noticeably harder to steer at times than previously, especially when one handed. (Thinking about nibbling out a circle in the fender opposite the gas fill and installing a cup holder off a craftsman fender I have sitting out back)

So, this parts list is on order, and I'm going to try to salvage the rear and put it back together with a helicoil in that broken bolt hole. I've stared at it now for several days and I believe there might just be enough aluminum material left to get a helicoil in there and have it hold up. I attached a picture of the damaged hole: 20170501_022346602_iOS.jpg

This has me wondering, since I will probably have to buy a pack of helicoils, would it benefit me to drill all the holes out and install them in all the holes while it's apart?? If my repair works, I will put it back in the 1864, and move everything back... and all the stars will align, and dogs will be sleeping with cats, etc... I already have the axle tube drains drilled into the case so that's all set.

[farmall fred]

If you only have one damaged hole I would just tap it out to 7/16-14 NC thread and drill the hole in the axle tube and if it is a frame attachment hole to 7/16. The tap drill size for 7/16-14 NC is a letter drill U. 0.3680 since the hole is a stripped out 3/8-16 NC you could just tap to 7/16-NC as the 3/8 bolt is 0.375 OD. Good luck.
Tom

[sorner]

Originally Posted by farmall fred

If you only have one damaged hole I would just tap it out to 7/16-14 NC thread and drill the hole in the axle tube and if it is a frame attachment hole to 7/16. The tap drill size for 7/16-14 NC is a letter drill U. 0.3680 since the hole is a stripped out 3/8-16 NC you could just tap to 7/16-NC as the 3/8 bolt is 0.375 OD. Good luck.
Tom

That's not a bad idea. It is a frame attachment hole. I was looking at thread inserts and to get a 3/8-16 thread inside, the outside has to be about 9/16, I think that might be pushing the limits of material around the side of the hole that already has a chip out of it. I know where it's thin where the chip is is only the top part of the hole, and further down the hole is in the meat of the case and should hold fine. If a 7/16" hole in there fails, I will still have the option of going to an insert hopefully. The frame hole probably will need drilled to 7/16" also, correct? I like this idea... thank you.

[DieselDoctor]

You could heli-coil the hole, or tap to the next size as mentioned, or you could just replace the bad housing. There are plenty out there. Last heli-coil kit I bought was around $35.
Here's a housing for not much more ----
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cub-Cadet-68...YAAOSwcUBYQP2K Not mine by the way just offering another option.

[sorner]

Originally Posted by Sam Mac

Or you could sell it to me. Google says your 347 miles north so I'll give you $750 for it delivered to me.

I totally missed this offer somehow. I'll keep an eye out for another one for you, I'm back on a mission to fix this one for me. About a 700 mile round trip, I could almost personally deliver. If I find a Super around here with a 60" deck that I can afford, my 1864 all fixed up will almost certainly be available then...

[sorner]

Originally Posted by DieselDoctor

You could heli-coil the hole, or tap to the next size as mentioned, or you could just replace the bad housing. There are plenty out there. Last heli-coil kit I bought was around $35.
Here's a housing for not much more ----
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cub-Cadet-68...YAAOSwcUBYQP2K Not mine by the way just offering another option.

Also an option, thanks. Will a 2082 housing work? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cub-Cadet-20...MAAOSwU8hY4Sjw

[J-Mech]

Well.... I was going to tell you to look it up yourself and see. But, they did some changing of the part numbers, so the parts book makes it look like they are different. But they are not. Yes, it will work. All the hydro/rear end housings are the same. SGT/GT=same. Only difference is the reduction gears.

[sorner]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

Well.... I was going to tell you to look it up yourself and see. But, they did some changing of the part numbers, so the parts book makes it look like they are different. But they are not. Yes, it will work. All the hydro/rear end housings are the same. SGT/GT=same. Only difference is the reduction gears.

I did look it up, and I saw the same part number for the 1641 and 1864 housing but different for the 2082, yet it looks exactly the same. Thank you for confirming.