1864 cleanup, test drive, and leak found - Page 12

dodge trucker · #**111** 05-01-2017, 03:59 PM

I didn't read the whole thing due to being at work plus very poor phone reception, I'LL read it later when I get home but from what I have read it brings up a question; would another hydro unit that came from an 1864 help any? I have one collecting dust. Also have a set of those blades for a 54" deck with the hardened cutting edges that won't fit anything that I have. I'll check back later.

sorner · #**112** 05-02-2017, 10:49 PM

I found a helicoil kit locally for $29 and had a whole bunch of coils in it with the installer and tap. I brought it home and drilled the hole out to the right size and tapped it for the coil and ran one in the hole. Perfect fit except it's not deep enough for the hole. Two of them are the perfect size so i ran two in the hole and carefully broke off the tangs. A brand new bolt goes right in and out just fine. I can't put it together yet because I am waiting for the gaskets. I did one on the other side as well the same way because I noticed once I got all the permatex off, hidden underneath was a wild attempt at drilling out a bolt and they went right through the side of the bolt apparently into the threads and aluminum. So I did the same on that hole as the other. I want to put the braces on like extreme sells but I can't splurge for another $130 so I'm going to use some steel I already have and make my own braces. Since both of these damaged holes were frame holes, that'd be necessary. This tractor is only going to be mowing and occasionally pulling a trailer around, no plowing dirt or snow. That's what I have the Jacobsen for.
After a brief frustration fueled hiatus from this project and a give up, I'm excited to get this thing back together.

dodge trucker · #**113** 05-02-2017, 11:35 PM

I just had to buy a 3/8-16 heli coil kit myself for a project I have here, and there are different length heli coils available. I think the "standard" ones are about 9/16" long, but I ordered some 3/4" long ones on Feebay that I found for about the price of dirt, though I have piggybacked them one behind the other before.... I like the idea of 1 solid heli coil better....
in my case I have 2 aluminum engine sumps that need a couple of heli coils each....

J-Mech · #**114** 05-03-2017, 12:34 AM

Time Sert's are much better than heli-coils. Anything similar is fine too. Cost a bit more of coarse, but well worth it.

I'm not advocating this particular brand, or that you should buy from this site. This is just for reference:

http://www.timesert.com/html/inchsert.html

sorner · #**115** 05-03-2017, 01:28 PM

This thread damage issue is resolved and in the past (I HOPE!!!

)

Now I have a question going back to the reason I have this rear opened up in the first place... on the axle carrier gaskets, should they get some permatex or are they installed dry? I've seen this one go both ways in my research. If it's OK to go either way, I would be inclined to go with a coat of permatex for additional sealing. I'm just wondering if there's a general consensus here.

J-Mech · #**116** 05-03-2017, 01:32 PM

You will not find a general consensus. You will find a lot of opinions.

As a long time mechanic, gaskets are installed dry. Always. But, that said, I would just use RTV on the axle housing with no gasket at all. When you apply a silicone sealant to a gasket it makes it slick. The gasket will "slide" out instead of crush. Do as you see fit.

dodge trucker · #**117** 05-03-2017, 01:40 PM

Yup I just had a situation with a gasket on one of my trucks where I put some sealer on (NOT RTV) to help hold a gasket in place as an "extra hand", assembled it and wound up with a worse oil leak than I had set out to fix. Lucky the part was easy to get at, gaskets are cheap for it and I had more than one on hand. All fixed now. But be careful with combining gaskets and sealers.

sorner · #**118** 05-03-2017, 01:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech

You will not find a general consensus. You will find a lot of opinions.

As a long time mechanic, gaskets are installed dry. Always. But, that said, I would just use RTV on the axle housing with no gasket at all. When you apply a silicone sealant to a gasket it makes it slick. The gasket will "slide" out instead of crush. Do as you see fit.

Thanks, very good points. I thought about going with no gaskets but Sam gave me the parts list which included the carrier gaskets, and since it was already leaking from there when I took it out with no gasket and only red stuff, I didn't want to do that again and risk having to take it all back out if it still leaks to do the gaskets.

sorner · #**119** 05-03-2017, 01:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dodge trucker

Yup I just had a situation with a gasket on one of my trucks where I put some sealer on (NOT RTV) to help hold a gasket in place as an "extra hand", assembled it and wound up with a worse oil leak than I had set out to fix. Lucky the part was easy to get at, gaskets are cheap for it and I had more than one on hand. All fixed now. But be careful with combining gaskets and sealers.

+2 for dry... good enough for me. My mind is easily changed when it's not made up. I will go with dry. I don't want more problems.

sorner · #**120** 05-03-2017, 06:07 PM

My rear is Whole again.

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