What a rag

[twoton]

I’ll try and get everyone in one post here,

Yes Sam that is a good thought, thanks for the link. I actually already had it only the picture quality was very poor that’s why I referred to the schemat.., sorry, picture on Partstree, Thanks again.

Thanks Mike, I appreciate your input.

And J-Mech, thank you too. And don’t worry, being the father of 3 boys more often than not I too adopt the “Do it my way or Die!”, attitude.

And sawdustdad, I have been considering that, that’s why I purchased two rag joints, just in case. My concern is that it might force the end of the drive shaft “out” of the ball bushing.

Darkminion, thanks, the ball bearing is in place.

OK, so that’s done. Looks like I’ll be taking this apart soon. Anything worth doing is worth doing right.

[red211]

Admit it, you just wanted to use that handy dandy spring compressor again!

[twoton]

Yeah red, I kinda thought I'd be back into it. How about your's, did you end up replacing that lever arm?

[finsruskw]

As long as we are adding up everyone's 2 cents worth I'll ad this...

The throw out bearing only goes on ONE WAY, period. If you look at it, it should be obvious which is the correct way.

Also, from the pictures you posted, it appears the pins on your drive plate are all the same length and you are missing the anti rattle spring. One of the pins should be longer than the other 2, this is the one that retains the anti-rattle spring. It goes on the pin before the clutch disc and keeps it from flopping around on the pins when the clutch is disengaged thus hogging out the holes.

Excess operation of the tractor, such as when using a shredder with the brake pedal depressed and the clutch dis-engaged, will likely lead to premature T/O bearing failure, kinda like when you got hollered at by Dad or the driver training instructor for riding the clutch when learning to drive, LOL BTDT bout 60 years ago!! Mis-adjusted clutch (no free play) will result in the same malady. At $50 a pop, Ya don't want to wreck that bearing. My 126 still has an original IH bearing in use.

I just happen to have my 126 ready to install and available for some pictures.
However, it is a NF and the driver is somewhat different than yours but otherwise pretty much the same, the NF does not utilize the teaser spring cup.

[red211]

Originally Posted by twoton

Yeah red, I kinda thought I'd be back into it. How about your's, did you end up replacing that lever arm?

I am going to, with two back to back snow events and now a week of rain I haven't worked in three weeks so clutch is on hold for a few weeks. Wife OKed the parts purchase but I don't really need it at this time so I can wait. I was going to reuse the disc but just going to replace it all and fix it right the first time. Thanks J-Mech for making me fix it right!!

[twoton]

That's a great looking clutch finsruskw , and thanks for your 2 cents, I appreciate it. And you're right, it is obvious how the t/o bearing goes, when I was assembling it I looked at it and said "dang! that release arm shouldn't be acting on that face of the bearing, it should be on the other side, with the metal casing!", but allas, I refered back to the schemat.., sorry, picture and disposed of better judgement! And so it goes... Thanks for your help.

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by twoton

And you're right, it is obvious how the t/o bearing goes, when I was assembling it I looked at it and said "dang! that release arm shouldn't be acting on that face of the bearing, it should be on the other side, with the metal casing!"

The dimples on the fork should contact the outside race of the bearing, no matter which way the bearing is installed. Yes, the bearing only goes in one way, but the dimples should contact the outside race either way.

[Merk]

Originally Posted by finsruskw

As long as we are adding up everyone's 2 cents worth I'll ad this...

The throw out bearing only goes on ONE WAY, period. If you look at it, it should be obvious which is the correct way.

Also, from the pictures you posted, it appears the pins on your drive plate are all the same length and you are missing the anti rattle spring. One of the pins should be longer than the other 2, this is the one that retains the anti-rattle spring. It goes on the pin before the clutch disc and keeps it from flopping around on the pins when the clutch is disengaged thus hogging out the holes.

Excess operation of the tractor, such as when using a shredder with the brake pedal depressed and the clutch dis-engaged, will likely lead to premature T/O bearing failure, kinda like when you got hollered at by Dad or the driver training instructor for riding the clutch when learning to drive, LOL BTDT bout 60 years ago!! Mis-adjusted clutch (no free play) will result in the same malady. At $50 a pop, Ya don't want to wreck that bearing. My 126 still has an original IH bearing in use.

I just happen to have my 126 ready to install and available for some pictures.
However, it is a NF and the driver is somewhat different than yours but otherwise pretty much the same, the NF does not utilize the teaser spring cup.

When rebuilding a clutch I will not use the anti rattle springs.

[bocephus1991]

Heck those pics are the first anti rattle springs/clips I've ever seen! My 1200 has never had them as long as I can remember.

[red211]

My 128 has all three anti=rattle springs and the clutch with metal in the middle.
Friction part is not worn, just funky from sitting in contact with PP. Getting a new disc anyway but not sure about springs.