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Reload this Page Kohler k241a Rebuild
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  #141  
Old 04-15-2016, 11:59 PM
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bocephus1991 bocephus1991 is offline
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Hope you triple checked that you timed it correctly! It's bette to be safe than sorry! And when you install the did the oil hole goes towards the cam! Don't scratch up the crank when you put the rod in either.
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April 1979 1200 Quietline 44A deck 1988 1211 customized into a 1288 with a K301AQS 38C deck and a 1864 54” deck . Snow blades 42" and 54" . Brinly disk, brinly plow a cultivator and a $5 brinly yard rake!
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  #142  
Old 04-16-2016, 09:31 PM
Bigsauce Bigsauce is offline
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Hope you triple checked that you timed it correctly! It's bette to be safe than sorry! And when you install the did the oil hole goes towards the cam! Don't scratch up the crank when you put the rod in either.
Totally agree, I've been double checking everything I've been doing, and then rechecking everything again just in case. I slid the piston in today, with the oil hole on the rod towards the camshaft. Ran into an issue though. Not sure what to torque the rod to. The seller included instructions which state 140 inch pounds, while a slip that was in the box with the rod says 260 inch pounds. That's quite a difference! Which sounds right to you guys? Going to contact the seller but I'm hoping someone here can chime in too.
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  #143  
Old 04-16-2016, 10:58 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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I would toque it at 22ftlbs for a nut style, 24ftlbs for a bolt style. Either way, it's not that critical. If unsure, just go 23.


Use oil only on the rod/journal when installing.
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  #144  
Old 04-18-2016, 05:46 PM
Bigsauce Bigsauce is offline
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So this happened today... fell about two feet from the S/G mount while i was trying to bolt it in... Not sure how to proceed. Would this be weld able, is the bracket replaceable, or do I have to buy a whole new s/g?
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  #145  
Old 04-18-2016, 06:37 PM
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Alvy Alvy is offline
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End cap can be replaced by itself. Or it can be welded and ground smooth no big deal it happens. Take out the 2 long bolts, there is an indexing pin/hole when it goes back together.
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  #146  
Old 04-18-2016, 09:34 PM
Bigsauce Bigsauce is offline
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End cap can be replaced by itself. Or it can be welded and ground smooth no big deal it happens. Take out the 2 long bolts, there is an indexing pin/hole when it goes back together.
Thanks, had it welded for now but I'll be on the look out for a replacement end cap in the future.
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  #147  
Old 04-19-2016, 10:42 PM
Bigsauce Bigsauce is offline
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I have the block back in the tractor, just have to bolt down the head and attach carb and governor. Hoping I'll have it finished tomorrow time permitting.
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  #148  
Old 04-21-2016, 08:38 PM
Bigsauce Bigsauce is offline
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Alright so I got the block back in the tractor, everything wired up and ready to go. I tried to start it but I got no spark at the spark plug! I've got 12 volts from positive to negative terminal of the coil. I'm thinking maybe my ignition wire went bad or I wired something wrong. Gonna go over it once more tomorrow.
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  #149  
Old 04-21-2016, 08:47 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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I'm thinking you need to file your points.

You should have power on the negative side of the coil if the points are open. When they close, then power should go away. If it doesn't, the points aren't making contact. I'm assuming you put a new set it. File them, then check the timing again.
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  #150  
Old 04-21-2016, 09:15 PM
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I would have put a new wire to the points too. Don't know if you did, but did you static time it per the procedure in the tech section?
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April 1979 1200 Quietline 44A deck 1988 1211 customized into a 1288 with a K301AQS 38C deck and a 1864 54” deck . Snow blades 42" and 54" . Brinly disk, brinly plow a cultivator and a $5 brinly yard rake!
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