1782 Drive Shaft Wobble

[Oak]

I'm thinking your input seal is shot if the shaft was shaking that much. Maybe you can be careful and drill it still in the tractor and use an easy-out to get the bolt out. The seal is a NAPA #6204 and like Sam was saying you may need one of his adapter hubs if yours is messed up and you can't find a used one. How tight is the pump shaft adapter on the input shaft? Maybe all you need is a new bolt and a seal. I would put the time and money in it because you will never find anything that would compare to that machine built today unless you go with a $8k to $10k machine.

[rkeithley]

Originally Posted by Sam Mac

I know this is not what you want to hear but the best way to deal with it is to pull the whole rear end and pump together. Then pull the pump off the gear case. Put the pump in a drill press and drill the broken bolt. At this age I would also replace all the seals in the pump and the rear end. Here are a couple threads on the topic that should cover what you are dealing with.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=23229
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=21261

Also that pump drive shaft adapter is NLA from Cub, I am getting a couple made that will engage more of the pump shaft and they are hardened. I hope they work better than the OEM stuff.

Do not use a drill and easy out worst tool ever made Take a small piece of metal 1/4 x 1 wide 6 inches long drill a 5/16 hole in it and weld the plate to the broken bolt, The heat from welding will swell the bolt/ shaft and when the bolt cools it wil shrink but the shaft will not. the bolt will come right out. I dont know how many times I had to fix peoples mistakes of drilling/easy out breaking off

[Oak]

I've had pretty good luck with easy-outs but your idea sounds good too.

[CADplans]

There are many good methods, drilling works if you do not have a welder, and the broken stud is just sitting there, needing turned out.

I have even seen success with a left-hand drill bit. Using a drill in reverse, drill the bolt, if it is not stuck, many times during the drilling, the bolt just screws out!!

My stick welder is tough to weld that little hole, so even though I have a welder, it is not my first choice.

[Sam Mac]

I think I would pull it out and check to see if the shaft is good before I worried about getting the bolt out. Also the bolt has Loc-Tite on it so you may need to heat it to get it out.

[Waytech]

Bolt is snaped inside shaft, at least 1/4", so nothing to weld to.

[Sam Mac]

I have this sitting on the shelf ready to go.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=23229

It also has had the check valves rebuilt so no leaks.

[FrankF3]

Sam,
How much of the yard can you mow when running the tractor off of the cordless drill?

[Waytech]

Well I got back to working on this 1782. Filled the rear with fluid. Reconnected the driveshaft and let it spin for 5 minuets. Shut it down and checked for leaks. Only place I could see anything was at the charge pump seal. Just a wet look. I assume that once it gets real hot, thinner oil came out faster.

I took out the entire rear end so I can work on it. I am waiting for my nephew to stop by and help drillout the bolt. As for the seal, this one has what I would call a fork over it. I do not see that in the exploded view. I assume that I just remove the fork and pry out the seal.

What's good source for a new one, besides CC?
Looks like I need a 921-3032 seal.

[FrankF3]

That bolt could be tough to get out, I think it's put together with threadlocker, Some heat as suggested may melt it enough to get it out. Personally, I would start with a transfer punch to center-punch the center of the bolt and start drilling very carefully and slowly if it is recessed as you say.