Exhaust valve cleaning

[mickb72]

Originally Posted by Berwil

That far? I could be describing what I would like to rent to the guy at Autozone for the third time in that amount of time.

Mick, I did notice some tool marks on the inside of the head, looked like someone had scraped it clean at one point. Are the "eyebrows" indicative of a valve job? The piston has std stamped on the top so I figured someone else was just in there to clean up.

Bill

Hi ,not a valve grind, but opened up for better flow and hp. Mike

[Jeff in Pa]

Originally Posted by Berwil

That far? I could be describing what I would like to rent to the guy at Autozone for the third time in that amount of time.

Mick, I did notice some tool marks on the inside of the head, looked like someone had scraped it clean at one point. Are the "eyebrows" indicative of a valve job? The piston has std stamped on the top so I figured someone else was just in there to clean up.

Bill

I already checked there, no flathead valve spring tools.

Here's mine

click for bigger pic

[Berwil]

Figures, glad I didn't run over there to check. Man that makes it look so easy I'm tempted clean my O valves for fun! JK

[Maxwelhse]

Nice job and pictures!

Originally Posted by Berwil

I used laquer thinner and scotch brite pads to clean everything, the brass brushes I got were useless.

Though it wouldn't have done much for your guides, you can buy 3M Scotchbrite Roloc discs for a standard 1/4" die grinder arbor. Speeds up the job tremendously. I just replaced the head on my K321 and that's what I used to clean everything (and a little emory cloth where I couldn't reach with the wheel). I use grade VFN (very fine) so I'm sure not to take any material off. It took about 10 minutes and no elbow grease to do the block, head, top of piston, and top of valves. Then about 10 minutes with emory cloth + plenty of elbow.

http://www.amazon.com/3M-7513-Scotch...oloc+very+fine

I buy them locally for a little less money but they are expensive no matter what.

[J-Mech]

I used to use those, but quit. Yes, it says for cleaning gaskets on engine parts.... but found that as the pad wears it (obviously) "flakes" or comes apart, (wears). It is made of an abrasive material. If any is left behind in the engine, or on parts it's like putting sand in the motor. We switched to the hard plastic/rubber Roloc disks. The also can be bought/ordered locally. They cost way more than the other ones, but last a long time if used correctly. I can rebuild at least one and a half big diesels and only use up one. (Unless it's a really old motor and stuff it really caked on.)

Here's what they look like.
3M-7524.jpg

[Maxwelhse]

I agree that they come apart quick.. My bigger fear with them is that when they load up they basically increase in coarseness (and they do load up very fast in VFN grade) from whatever they're full of. Gotta change the discs frequently to avoid both problems. The "questionable" ones I keep around for rougher service, but even then they don't last that long.

I've been curious about the type you mentioned for quite some time. I may get a few next time and try them out if you're getting that kind of life out of them. I used 6-8 of the VFN pads for 1 V6 head gasket job on a gas engine.

What grade are you using for engine work for gasket removal and surface prep? Oh... and what's used correctly? Not hogging on them when you should be using a scraper first or is there a trick?

[J-Mech]

The different colors are different "grits" (gradually harder rubber). White is softest, then yellow, then green. I use green for cast iron, yellow for aluminum. I don't use the white.

The trick to long life is (this goes for ANY type of disk): 1.) scraping off as much as possible. 2.) keeping the disk as flat as possible (not tipping it to the side) 3.) speed is the most important. Only run it as fast as necessary to remove material. DO NOT run the tool wide open. I hold my die grinder with one finger under the trigger and one of top, so it helps vary the speed. Basically, as slow as it can run and still take material off.

You will learn quick that you don't want to go through very many. They are about $7-$10 per disk depending on where you get them. Direct from 3M here they are $85.90 for 10.

[Maxwelhse]

Thanks for the info. I'll check 'em out next time. Probably just 1 of each useful grade though!

[dbuck]

Maxwell, How are you doing? Check out D&B sales, they may have them.

[Maxwelhse]

Originally Posted by dbuck

Maxwell, How are you doing? Check out D&B sales, they may have them.

Doing good! Cool. I'll check them out next time I'm in need!