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#11
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Quote:
And post #6 mentions the 3 various loctite applicable |
#12
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That's what happens when ya don't finish reading to the end of the sentence ! my mistake ! I would use the loctite retaining compound, I've used it many times on a lot bigger machinery without issues , I'm sure a good used crank is out there to be had at a reasonable $ also
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#13
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After reading your reply, I reread mine and it looks like I was pointing out your mistake, my bad, I didn't mean that, I just meant to clarify things.
Anyway, I'm in full agreement with trying loctite if it is not sloppy "loose" ---- just a not snug fit. And as you mention, that crank is not difficult to find on the 'net. Without being there to see/feel the fit, ones description of tight or loose is impossible to accuratly describe. even a mike/telescoping gauge gives different readings to different people. |
#14
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not a problem !
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#15
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Well, the fact that Thomas said he was confused made me think again
about the machine shop. I said to myself, I wonder if they are confused as well? Our original conversation I was told it was the main bearings(plural) that were going to be messed up. Called yesterday and said " They don't make such a thing as ball bearings that are undersized. He said no we need bearing inserts for the rod. WHAT? After letting him know that the rod is the bearing that attaches to the crank. He told me he led me down the wrong road. Which in turn means I led you guys down the wrong road. Thank you all for letting me know how things get all messed up communication wise. I see a couple good things that came from this mess. 1) I learned a whole bunch of stuff I did not know. Thank you all 2) I still have a good crank, although now it needs ground to .010, for the connecting rod that is. Had to laugh at your thought on the Mars missions George. I thought to myself . "But I expect the Gubment to screw it up, not the local guys" It did cheer me up. I hope this post isn't confusing. Ken |
#16
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Too funny, I had a good laugh.
Sometimes I'm so confused I don't know if I'm winding my arse of 'cratchin' me watch. So now the comfusing machnist needs a .010 oversize rod so he can grind the crank the proper undersize. FWIW: there is a well respected fellow on Epay that sells parts as well as kits for kohlers. https://www.ebay.com/usr/bakt4kids |
#17
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Have used his kits several times w/ zero issues.
They include all you will need except the valve guides which are only $10.ea last kit I got. Your, umm, machinist would/should know if they are needed or not. Good luck! |
#18
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Yes that is correct. Take the .002 undersize crank and grind it .010
under and buy another rod to fit that. No problem, clear as mud on this end . Have been buying parts from the guy that you linked. Been just fine so far. Ken |
#19
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Now as usual, I'll throw some mud in the clear water.
A rod can be "reconditioned" sometimes. You mill off a bit off the rod and/or cap mating surfaces, reducing the bore size, then it is honed to the correct size, in this case .002 under stock size. The machine used is a Sunnen connecting rod reconditioning/honing machine. They were extensively used when we did a lot of engine rebuilding back in the day. They are some on Ebay now if one is curious for a look-see. Also more mud: The pulling guys are putting inserts like in today's vehicle engines in connecting rods instead of direct rod to crank surfaces. What I don't remember is if they are modifying stock rods or are aftermarket specialty rods. Edit: if your going with a new .010 undersize rod, purchase it first and give it to the "machinst" so he can fit the crank to it correctly, and look up the clearance and give it to him just incase he don't have the specks.(I'm too lazy to look for you) at this point you don't need any more aggravation Ha,LOL! |
#20
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Quote:
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