782 giving me fit's

[J-Mech]

Yeah, I've seen it done a lot too. If the engine runs under any load, they will fail. Seen it over and over. Your experience may differ. I wouldn't do it.... ever.

Jasper engines used to be bad about it. Used to find all sizes of holes in their engines. Seen as much as .060" over when all the rest were .010.

[farmall fred]

I finished up the Sickle Bar 782 Mag 18 engine swap today and used it on the lawn roller for a couple of hours to check it out. It runs great. No oil leaks, starts easy and is very responsive, and the hydro works good with no creep. I adjusted the steering box and greased it before reinstalling the engine and it steers easy and does not drift around. If the hour meter is right the tractor has less than 450 hours. The paint on this old cub is in poor condition but about 15 minutes with the buffer and some mild polish and at 25 ft it doesn't look to bad. It will do just fine for what I intend to use it for. I installed the dual hyd set up from the 1872 on it before I finished it up so when I mount the sickle bar I can add a cylinder to lift the cutter bar. I will start on the sickle bar install tomorrow and will post pictures of it in the thread I started in the implements section.
Later
Tom

[Sam Mac]

Tom

I put a Haban sickle bar on a 1641, here is the thread, maybe it will help you.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=32618

[farmall fred]

Sam, great job on adapting the Haban to your tractor. I like the winch for raising the cutter bar. The mower I have is a Simplicity and will easily adapt to a mule drive but the way it drives might be a problem. I slid it under the 782 when I brought it back to the shop and it looks it may hang very low to the ground. It has a vertical jackshaft that is driven from the right angle drive on a Simplicity and that then powers the mower pitman arm with a twisted belt. It looks like the bottom of the undercarriage will only be about two inches from the ground. I either will try to shorten the jackshaft to raise the undercarriage or add a drive system like your Haban has. Have to see what will work best. If I get a chance to work on it tomorrow I will post some pictures of what I am talking about.
Later
Tom

[Nightow1]

I noticed you said you were very careful installing the seal and lubed it up before installing????
Do not lube the.seal or the engine clen the engine with alcohol or something . SEALS should be installed DRY.

[ol'George]

Originally Posted by Nightow1

I noticed you said you were very careful installing the seal and lubed it up before installing????
Do not lube the.seal or the engine clen the engine with alcohol or something . SEALS should be installed DRY.

Not Always:

The I.D. of a seal should be lubed with light Grease,or appropriate lube for the application.
a lot of seals are packaged with lube, insuring that the seal is not damaged upon start up before it receives lubricant.
The OD of the seal should be installed dry--- or with sealant, if specified by instructions, or conditions that require a sealant.
I read his post #1 to say he installed the I.D. lubed and the O.D. dry as would be correct in that instance under normal conditions.

[farmall fred]

To clear this up I lubed the ID of the seal with some white grease and coated the OD with Loctite sleeve bonder. The season for the locate was the fact that I used a Chicago Rawhide metal seal instead of the rubber coated one that Kohler supplies. This was a Viton double lip seal that I have used in the past on Kohler motors before and I have never had one leak or come out. I have seen the rubber coated ones come out. This has worked for me, your mileage may vary.
Tom

[farmall fred]

I swear that this Mag 18 will be the death of me yet. I had it running great, started easy and sounded good. Then It flooded. I removed the carb and it was full of crap. I had flushed the tank and replaced the fuel lines and installed a new filter when I put the engine in. I wondered how the crap in the carb could get through a new filter until I looked at the clear plastic filter and noticed that the element was not glued to the end and this allowed dirt to pass through it. I recleaned the carb and put a kit in it, blew out the fuel lines replaced the filter and removed and flushed the tank with some carb cleaner, drained the oil and then started it up. it ran well and idled smooth and would restart instantly. I let it set over night and it started back up on one turn. I figured that was the end of it but this morning I decided to work on the sickle bar and when I went to start it up it had gas in the cylinders again. I went through my stash and found a Kohler adjustable carb, cleaned and rebuilt it and tomorrow I will drain the oil for the third time and restart it. I have looked the Walbro carb over and cannot find a reason for it to flood, I even lowered the float level last time slightly and it still flooded. The previous owner had a second fuel shut off on this engine and know I no
why. Maybe I can finally finish up the sickle bar mower install. The Walbro carb is now in the trash.
Tom

[olds45512]

The mag 18 on the 1811 did that so I replaced the carb with one from a kt17 and didn't have any issues after that.

[ol'George]

Check the fuel pump, they are known to rupture the diaphragm and are as useless as a ripped condom and as frightful, pissing gas into the crankcase.