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#11
02-26-2012, 09:44 AM
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Odd thing. I just looked all the way through my 102 owners manual and I did not find any recommendations on engine break in. My 2084 does have some words but not for the K241 in the 102. After a rebuild the mechanic told me pretty much what was already said.
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With my son, EricR Super 2084 with 54" mower, 451 blower. 2086 with 3 pt hitch, 54 inch deck, 551 blower, 54 in brinly blade. A 4 digit original w deck. A 70 with deck. 2 102s both with 42 in decks, one with creeper, 1 36 inch IH snow thrower CW36, 1 42 inch IH blade. 149 with mower. 2072 w 3 pt hitch, Johnny bucket, 60 in mower, 451 blower. Jacobson GT 10 with mower. DR Lawn vac tow behind,Home made lawn roller. Brinly cart, 2 off brand carts and 1 home made cart. 
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#12
02-26-2012, 01:00 PM
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Thanks Merk every where i go i learn from you
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Cubs: 2xOriginal, 100, 125, 2x127, 147, 128, 2x 66 Sears Suburban, 66 Sears Custom 6, 64 DB 725
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#13
02-26-2012, 07:06 PM
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Thanks for the help guys! I'm ordering mag drain plug from Kirk Engines so it will get the shaveings. I'm using Shell Rotella in that motor.30 weight than i use Royal Purple in my 1812 10w30.
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1971 128,3pt,ags,rebuilt motor,headlights 1988 1812,dual ports 1966 122,creeper,3pt,ags,sa,headlights,restored 1st place at RPRU 2013 1966 123,3pt,brinly spring assist 1973 108 1968 125 Attachments:QA36A,wfblade,2 nf blades,brinly disc,a cultivator,plow,homemade wrecker boom with 2000lbs winch,ih weights,50lbs weights,2IH windbreakers
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#14
02-26-2012, 08:15 PM
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Maybe this will help some of you guys. Some good info about zinc in oil.
http://joegibbsdriven.com/trainingce...oiloldcar.html My race engine builder claims this is the best stuff for solid lifters and cams.
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#15
02-28-2012, 08:43 PM
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my k301 smoked a little and used oil so for a fix until the time i can get it fixed properly i started using an engine additive called engine restorer, made for both six and eight cylinder engines. it helps stop oil blow by. it has pretty much halted my oil consumption to nil but not completely. very impressed with this stuff!
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#17
06-09-2020, 11:50 PM
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Don't make a big deal out of flat vs. non flat tappet oil on these little engines.
The valve springs that can be compressed with your fingers/screwdriver are a whole lot different than a 10,000 Rpm SBC race motor with #325+ valve springs. Back in the late 50's early 60's we did have lifter/cam wear on SBC's but our oil was not much better than slick snot. oil today is at least 2 times better and we learned a lot about lifters & cam hardness. Roller motors rev easier, produce more Hp and allow for more radical cam grinds, do you really need that in a garden tractor/lawn mower? Buy what you want, but most important thing is don't rev a cold motor and change oil often. Also, Never start any equipment without pulling the dip stick first. If you run an engine out of fuel it will stop. If you run an engine out of oil it will stop, but it costs a lot more to restart it. 
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