Putting the K241 back together - Page 2

DeltaCub · #11 07-14-2019, 05:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rsshallop

Thank you DeltaCub, So far I have been using 3in1 multi-pupose oil on the parts put together so far. However, I'll go over them again some with non-detergent 30w oil and continue on using that. The main bearing is new and packed with grease. I'll add oil to it also.

3 in 1 is not heavy enough!!! Also get the grease out of those bearings. Lube with the 30w oil!!!!!

finsruskw · #12 07-14-2019, 08:40 PM

Did you replace the governor shaft and bushing??
If not, you will probably have an oil leak there, especially if you had seepage before the rebuild.

rsshallop · #13 07-14-2019, 09:30 PM

OK DeltaCub, I'll make sure I get the grease out of the bearing and get ample 30w onto the moving parts. Thank you for the heads up.

finsruskw, I am using the same governor shaft and bushing that was in there when I took it apart. Hopefully, it won't leak. It looked in OK shape to my inexperienced eye. No damage to the paddle or anything like that. I did not do any measurements on the shaft itself. But, I don't remember seeing any obvious leaking at the shaft end last year when I tried to adjust the governor to get the engine to run better.

rsshallop · #14 07-27-2019, 07:56 PM

Ok, still inching along with this rebuild. Cleaned all the grease out of the new bearings and re-lubricated everything as DeltaCub recommended. Kind of dumb of me to leave it in there in the first place as I'm guessing the grease would clog any small lubrication channels in the engine.

rsshallop · #15 07-27-2019, 08:00 PM

This is what I used to press the bearings into place (I have found this piece of steel handy for many tasks). I laid it sideways and tapped the bearings in.

rsshallop · #16 07-27-2019, 08:03 PM

Got the crankshaft in and I think the timing marks on the cam gear and crank are as they should be.

rsshallop · #17 07-27-2019, 08:14 PM

Pressed the bearing plate onto the block with the main bearing plate gasket and two spacer gaskets. Checked the end gap between the crankshaft shoulder and bearing inner race. it came in at .024 inches. So, I removed the bearing plate with my puller, removed the two spacer gaskets and reinstalled the bearing plate. This time there was zero end gap. So, I removed the bearing plate again and...

rsshallop · #18 07-27-2019, 08:18 PM

I guess the bearing came slightly out when I removed it the first time (hence the zero end play) and then was bound to come completely out when I removed it the second time. Anyway, got it off with my puller, two 8 inch bolts and some nuts and flat washers.

rsshallop · #19 07-27-2019, 08:24 PM

I then cleaned up the bearing and bearing plate with some brake cleaner, pressed the bearing back into the bearing plate and re-installed the bearing plate with the bearing plate gasket and one spacer gasket in place. This time the end play comes in at .016 inches. One question here, I think I read somewhere that the bearing plate bolts are suppose to be torqued to 35 foot pounds. If someone could confirm that, that would be great?

rsshallop · #20 07-27-2019, 08:35 PM

One other thing. The crankshaft I am using came out of a cub cadet 100. I wasn't completely confident in my micrometer skills and the numbers on the crank pin that came out of my 108 came in pretty close to .4991'ish, .4992'ish. This one is much closer to .4995 Anyway, I was surprised to see other differences in the crankshafts. Bottom line, I think the one I got from ebay looks a lot better. Here are some pics of the crank that came out of the 108 engine.