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#11
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Braze the fitting onto the jerry can with brass. You could braze a hose barb onto the can and use an inline filter, or you could braze on half of a 1/8 pipe coupler onto the can and screw a valve into the bottom with or without a filter screen and you may still have to use an inline filter. It's easy to do if everything is clean and you have enough heat. A propane torch isn't enough heat. Acetylene works great. Just my
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Matthew B 1972 129 w/hydraulic lift and head light option soon to be repainted |
#12
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You'd have to figure out some sort of vent too so the fuel will travel smoothly.
To make this a budget project an old metal out board motor tank would be pretty cool too. It would also take some modifications. |
#13
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One of the things I've thought about was simply relocate the existing fuel tank off the engine. Use it's bracket that's already designed to hold the tank and add bracketry to connect it to the tractor. Whatever I did, I'd make it so I could return the mods back to stock form. See how I like it and go from there to a larger tank later.
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IH Cub Cadet 109 IH Cub Cadet 126 (2) IH Cub Cadet 149 IH Cub Cadet 1650 MTD Cub Cadet LTX1042 |
#14
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I think that would be cool as long as it's not a plastic tank hanging around back there waiting for a stick to poke it.
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#15
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On a NF CC, I would look hard at relocating the battery to under the seat.
Then using another stock tank and stock cradle, mirror it next to the existing tank and Tee the lines together. You have now double the fuel. Looks kinda like stock. Added weight over rear axle. And if your still worried about filling it while engine hot, you could have a sheet metal shield between the two tanks. And just fill the new one to finish the current job. |
#16
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Quote:
Gas will boil off of hot things (within reason of course... I'm talking about a 220F intake manifold or engine block) in the absence of spark. Seen it/done it plenty of times. Gas and a spark from a battery..? well... |
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