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#11
01-30-2012, 07:18 PM
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to be continued
not more for today, I will attack again tomorrow. first pull pan and find "tink noise" then pull the cam, which means pulling the crank and piston.
And I thought I was retired; Cadet Farmer 
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#12
01-30-2012, 07:20 PM
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to be continued
enough for today, I will beguin again tomorrow.
first pull the pan then find "tink noise" then on to the cam problem. And I thought I was retired; Cadet Farmer
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#13
02-02-2012, 07:15 PM
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sounds like your c/r spring is bad or weak
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#14
02-02-2012, 10:25 PM
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I got a friend in north east that all they do is turn cranks. If you want his info PM me and Ill send it to you.
Like matt said, Id put a new rod in. For what they cost, Id replace it. As far as kohler I think all you can get is standard or .010 under. I remember a long time back, I think it was David Kirk talking about the weight differance between kohler rods and Stens. I have built engs with both, and have had no problem with the stens. Maybe they offer differant under sizes.
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#15
02-03-2012, 10:54 PM
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building k241s
Well for anyone interested;
I managed to build one engine from all my miscellenious engine parts. Now I can get my 102 running. I still have another block and head, etc. O'Reilly Auto Parts says they can build up one of my bad cranks and turn it back to standard for $112, and get me a new rod from kohler for another $30, so with all the other stuff I would need it will cost around $300 to build another, still for a fresh k241 it may be worth it. Cadet Farmer
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#17
02-04-2012, 07:11 AM
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$300 Rebuild
Well the run down would be;
120 to rebuild crank 55 rings and piston 25 gasket set 30 new rod 20 used cam 30 used bearing plate ____ $280 with a few variables, 300 ought to be close Cadet Farmer
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#19
02-04-2012, 09:03 AM
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Wow thats a good price then! But are you going to rebore the block? Be sure the throw side isnt egged shaped, if it is then youll end up rebuilding it again. Franks brother dose all our boring for us. He decks the blocks too in that price. Then we check and cut the seats if need be.
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#20
02-04-2012, 11:03 AM
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in response
First of all, CHNY I already pulled the engine back apart, and fornd a little clip falling around inside, henceforth the tink, and I do have the right oil pan for the rod I am using.
Now Vince_O that price was determined from list prices at the local O'Reilly Auto Parts Store, and the ebay for the used parts. The block I have doesn't need to be bored, and if it did I have my own boring bar. I worked at a GM dealership when I was a kid, I also raced bracket cars back in the "70s" so I have alot of tools and stuff. Cadet Farmer; over and out
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