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  #11  
Old 11-17-2009, 11:26 PM
Sawman Sawman is offline
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Why ??? That's what the brake pedal does, returns it to neutral, I don't want to have to keep my foot on it to keep it moving, set it and go just like a hand control, if plowing and hit something how would that work if your foot was on the pedal ? I see what you're getting at but this is just a project of mine, I don't have any plans to build or sell them to the public or even mow with it, (I used the pto lever for the hydraulic control) I just thought I'd share since reading the last post about this topic and to say yes it can be done in your backyard shop, I know how it is with a loader on a hydro, a foot pedal makes it so much more user friendly.
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  #12  
Old 11-18-2009, 04:08 AM
Yosemite Sam Yosemite Sam is offline
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Sawman,

Thanks for the pictures, I know they were a pain to take.
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  #13  
Old 11-19-2009, 02:36 PM
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ol'George ol'George is offline
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Default foot control

I can see advantages both ways,
It kinda goes without saying if designing for production in today’s sue crazy society, that a return to neutral would be a must. I too have used foot controls and have hit a bump and been lurched off the seat a bit, with the return to net. set up.
Maybe a "soft return" would be the best of both worlds.
I have pondered the idea of a foot control shuttle shift,-- thinking of incorporating a spring over shock, or a gas strut arrangement. I just haven’t
Got it right in my mind yet.
I'm still trying to dial in the power steering on the 782.
I would like it to be 1 finger operation instead of 2 fingers.
Don't get me wrong, it is loads better than "Armstrong" but I'm picky.
I'm thinking I got to work on the springs in the control plates, but I haven’t got that far yet, too many irons in the fire.
ol'Geo.
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  #14  
Old 11-19-2009, 07:50 PM
wshytle wshytle is offline
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Sawman-

I agree with Matt about the spring and returning to neutral. The spring also acts as the brake because we all know neutral to a hydro means stop. You said that was what the brake pedal was for, returning it to neutral. With a spring you should never or almost never need to touch the brake pedal. I have a green tractor that has foot hydro. It has the two pedals, forward and reverse, not the rocker pedal. It also has the separate brake pedal but the only time I use it is cranking because of the safety switch involved. All other times I just take my foot off and I'm stopped. The lack of a spring does sound a little dangerous as well.

Just my thoughts....Wayne
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  #15  
Old 11-19-2009, 10:09 PM
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Matt G. Matt G. is offline
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If you're plowing with a foot control, you won't be able to take your foot off and stay at a constant speed...you'll constantly have to change speed to match changing ground conditions. If you're at a plow day, you'll be changing speed a lot...trust me. The purpose of the brake pedal isn't to return it to neutral all the time....it's more of an Oh-s***-gotta-stop-RIGHT-NOW pedal.

With no spring, you'll have to bump the reverse part a bit to slow it down...bump the forward part a bit to speed it up...to me it'd just make a lot more sense to just keep your foot on it.
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  #16  
Old 12-06-2009, 12:32 AM
Sawman Sawman is offline
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Had some free time this week to get back to this project ( hunting season so we're slow at work ) put a hydraulic pump on and started my johnny bucket, put return springs on the hydro, it's a lot more user friendly to someone who wouldn't be used to running it, I'm not quite dialed in yet with them, forward spring is a little to short, I hooked it a hole in the frame for forward return and zip tied reverse return spring off the old clutch yolk wants to creep in reverse at neutral, when I pull the motor back out I will weld a sleeve on the cross support where the steering box mounts to and run an eye bolt though it and hook the spring to it to dial the springs to neutral.
As far as this brake pedal being a panic pedal, that's not what I ment, I find myself bumping it quite a bit just to SLOW down on my 149 while plowing snow when coming to a snow bank (or if there is roots in your yard like mine) one hand on the hydraulics the other on the steering, bump the brake pedal just to slow down not slam it to a stop, but any way yes I think this does work better with return springs.
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  #17  
Old 12-06-2009, 01:49 AM
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ACecil ACecil is offline
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Great job, Sawman! I really like your hydro pedals.
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  #18  
Old 12-06-2009, 10:01 AM
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Diz Jr. Diz Jr. is offline
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Sawman,
Nice fab work on the monster bucket :biggrin2.gif:
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  #19  
Old 01-09-2010, 12:30 PM
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MrChic MrChic is offline
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Sawman, that is such great work. I had posted about doing this awhile back, adding a ported pump on my 105. Most said there would not be enough room and all the hydro lines would look terrible. That is awesome. You did all the mods that I want to make my 105 what I want. The 1 inch spindles, the hydro lift and of course the treadle peddle. I have a Bolens hydro that has the foot pedal and it so much more enjoyable than the dash control. I actually have tried selling the Cub because the hydro control is such a PITA. I will have to rethink it.

Hey I live about an hour and 15 minutes from you in Jim Thorpe. Maybe I can stop and see you in the spring and pick your brain.

Do you go to any of the plow days near you? I think there is one in Bloomsburg area.
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  #20  
Old 01-09-2010, 12:47 PM
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Matt G. Matt G. is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sawman View Post
...put return springs on the hydro, it's a lot more user friendly to someone who wouldn't be used to running it, I'm not quite dialed in yet with them, forward spring is a little to short, I hooked it a hole in the frame for forward return and zip tied reverse return spring off the old clutch yolk wants to creep in reverse at neutral, when I pull the motor back out I will weld a sleeve on the cross support where the steering box mounts to and run an eye bolt though it and hook the spring to it to dial the springs to neutral.
I wish I'd have seen this when you posted it...I have a suggestion: If you get two identical extension springs and come up with brackets to mount them an equal distance away from their attachment point on the linkage in either direction, you shouldn't have the creep problem. You've got the right idea with the eye bolt, but it will work the best with 2 identical springs. Otherwise, the two directions will have a different feel, although I supposed that could be desirable in a sense. Just make sure everything is attached really well because you could be in for a wild ride if one spring comes off and the other pulls the linkage to the stop in one direction
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