1200 cub cadet clutch

[bogey68]

Originally Posted by dodge trucker

oh ok I misunderstood. I thought you were talking about welding the cradle rails together ("cradle mod") I agree not necessary to weld the mounts to the cradle, though it might not hurt to put a small tack on the thicker portion that has the counter bore step that locks into the cradle, from the bottom side/ because you only have 2 hands, and it sometimes helps to have a 3rd hand in assembling everything... that quick "tack" may be a big help as that 3rd hand.... but I don't think that I would weld them solid, or "go nuts on them"....that said, I haven't welded a set of mounts to the cradle before/// but then again I never really thought about welding those before, either.
I have seen the holes in the cradle pretty well wallowed out and egg shaped on a couple that I have torn apart. a quick tack, now that you mention it might be a help in getting everything "centered up" again if yours are wallowed/ egg shaped.

I'd better stop now or you'll have me overthinking this question, the next time that I cross that bridge.

I will not be welding in the solid engine mounts as the ones i ordered are aluminium. I am doing the cradle modification for sure. I have put together a clutch spring compressor. Worked better than i expected. Just ordered the rest of the parts i needed from Cubcadetusedpartsshop.com

I still need to purchase a spring and shaft to start assembly. Thinking about using a yellow spring. But wondering if i need the extended clutch release lever. Looks like i need a narrow frame clutch release lever. any input is greatly appreciated. Thank you for all the advice.

[ironman]

Originally Posted by bogey68

I will not be welding in the solid engine mounts as the ones i ordered are aluminium. I am doing the cradle modification for sure. I have put together a clutch spring compressor. Worked better than i expected. Just ordered the rest of the parts i needed from Cubcadetusedpartsshop.com

I still need to purchase a spring and shaft to start assembly. Thinking about using a yellow spring. But wondering if i need the extended clutch release lever. Looks like i need a narrow frame clutch release lever. any input is greatly appreciated. Thank you for all the advice.

You didn't say what your uses will be for this machine but for everyday chores stock springs have been working fine for forty some years. Beef up the pivot area of the release lever and that should be fine also. Don't understand why you refer to a narrow frame lever. Also, keep in mind that the heavier the spring, the harder it is on your throw out bearing.

But if you are hell bent on heavy duty stuff, here may be a helpful link...
https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...ad.php?t=19699

more info....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZfjSe8qgkqc

[bogey68]

Originally Posted by ironman

You didn't say what your uses will be for this machine but for everyday chores stock springs have been working fine for forty some years. Beef up the pivot area of the release lever and that should be fine also. Don't understand why you refer to a narrow frame lever.

But if you are hell bent on heavy duty stuff, here may be a helpful link...
https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...ad.php?t=19699

I believe i read to use a narrow frame clutch release lever on Brian Miller pulling tractor website. I have read a few pulling sites looking for guidance.
I acquired a 1200 from my deceased brothers x-wife. . Been sitting in a garage for at least 10 years with a trashed clutch. A month before i picked up a 86 with a blown engine for 50.00. I have had a 129 for 20 years still chugging along with hydraulics . and picked up a 1450 few years back with a snow thrower. I have zero experience with clutch type Cubs. I found a 169 without hydraulics last month 350.00. Iam a very happy man.

[ironman]

Originally Posted by bogey68

I believe i read to use a narrow frame clutch release lever on Brian Miller pulling tractor website. I have read a few pulling sites looking for guidance.
I acquired a 1200 from my deceased brothers x-wife. . Been sitting in a garage for at least 10 years with a trashed clutch. A month before i picked up a 86 with a blown engine for 50.00. I have had a 129 for 20 years still chugging along with hydraulics . and picked up a 1450 few years back with a snow thrower. I have zero experience with clutch type Cubs. I found a 169 without hydraulics last month 350.00. I am a very happy man.

Then you must be single.....

[Merk]

Is your 1200 going to be a daily user and just a pulling tractor?

I use different parts depending on the end use......mainly the big compression spring.

You should add extra support where the clutch lever connects to the tractor if you plan to use a red or yellow spring.

Here is a how to rebuild a clutch that I did.
https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...l+transmission

It is based on a narrow frame IH Cub Cadet. This will let you know what needs done to rebuild one. Wide Frame-Quiet Line clutches have few different parts.

I never heard of using a narrow frame clutch release lever on a wide frame. I want a longer lever when I use a yellow (1100 pound) spring.

I used a Kevlar clutch disc, trued clutch plates and a blue or cultivator spring when I rebuild a clutch. I'm not having clutch slippage problems.

[twoton]

I followed Merk's advice on the blue spring and am happy with it.

[vr4Legacy]

Originally Posted by bogey68

I believe i read to use a narrow frame clutch release lever on Brian Miller pulling tractor website. I have read a few pulling sites looking for guidance.

My 1200 came with a narrow frame clutch arm. It rattled like crazy and I could never get it adjusted right. I would not suggest going that route. My guess is the PO of my tractor had it on hand and threw it in there.

It's narrower, and doesn't fit in the hanger. You would at least need a NF hanger too if you went that route. But, again, I can't see any advantage. They are almost the same length, so you'd get no added leverage. Just a part that wasn't designed for the application.

[dodge trucker]

Blue spring (1 step over stock) and beefed up/ slop taken out of throw out lever, so far so good. I followed member"two ton"'s clutch thread which had Merk's clutch thread within it. I was surprised that pedal effort wasn't much stiffer than stock. The guy that owns the 1200 that i most recently did a clutch on, has another 1200 than I rebuilt the clutch on a few years ago with all brand new OEM stock parts, running the 2 machines back to back, the pedal feels much the same between them but on this one, having tightened up all of the possible worn and sloppy spots within the linkage, the whereas with the other 1200 that I didn't, this tractor runs much smoother throughout the rpm range. When I did the 1st one , I never really thought about all of the potential wear spots within the clutch system. Nor did I the 1st time thru this machine, either.

[bogey68]

[QUOTE=vr4Legacy;474892]My 1200 came with a narrow frame clutch arm. It rattled like crazy and I could never get it adjusted right. I would not suggest going that route. My guess is the PO of my tractor had it on hand and threw it in there.

It's narrower, and doesn't fit in the hanger. You would at least need a NF hanger too if you went that route. But, again, I can't see any advantage. They are almost the same length, so you'd get no added leverage. Just a part that wasn't designed for the application.[/QUOTE

I went back and reread garden tractor pulling tips (Brian Miller)

when using solid mounting system a person could use a clutch release lever off a 86 108 128. the hole is round, part number IH 547631-r2 and not oblong like one off of a 800 1000 1200. The oblong hole allows for movement when rubber mounts and flexible clutch plate are used.

I will use the 1200 to cut grass and pull a trailer. I intend to set up my 1200 to last a very long time.

I tried several machine shops around my area 1 place gave me price of 40 bucks for each pressure plate. (looking for a lathe) So i purchased them from Zach Kerber for 65.00 and a blue spring 25.00 free shipping.

Yes Am married with 4 children. My wife is awesome. I buy whatever toys i enjoy with no negative reactions from her. I have many hobbies from rc cars, boats, planes, to real toys like my 68 Chevy chevelle Malibu, 61 ford falcon, 78 sea ray, 59 14 ft. areocraft (restored), paddle boats, canoes, Kayaks, fishing hunting. Blah blah blah. the list goes on and on.

Merk thank you for the for input i will be and have been using your forum submission! I have made a similar compression jig. It worked very well.

I have everything with the exception of the clutch release lever the old 1 is very worn out the oblong hole is almost a inch more oblong than needed. I will order one today. Should have time to start putting it all back together.

I have done the rail mod.

[Jeff in Pa]

Originally Posted by bogey68

.............

I tried several machine shops around my area 1 place gave me price of 40 bucks for each pressure plate. (looking for a lathe) So i purchased them from Zach Kerber for 65.00 and a blue spring 25.00 free shipping.

..................

WOW

I charge $15 a plate to resurface them in my Monarch lathe.

Jeff