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  #11  
Old 10-28-2019, 09:10 PM
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Rwgarrison23 Rwgarrison23 is offline
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Originally Posted by darkminion_17 View Post
The repair manual says use them as needed, I always put one on, not three though...
Yeah I would not put them on that setup.
My worn out clutch have 3 on it haha.
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  #12  
Old 10-28-2019, 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by ironman View Post
YES..... plus 7 more characters
So, I'll have to do it when I change the fluid next time. I just refilled it.
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  #13  
Old 10-28-2019, 09:35 PM
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Cub70 Cub70 is offline
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Originally Posted by Rwgarrison23 View Post
My worn out clutch have 3 on it haha.
I do like that clutch/drive shaft assembly from Zach Kerber! I am actually looking at that exact same setup in the near future!

With that 6 pin clutch, you will not put the anti rattle springs on.
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1964 Cub Cadet 70 (Full Restoration), Upgraded/Rebuilt K181 8hp engine, custom exhaust stack/flapper, NEW clutch, brand NEW steering column, Custom made wiring harness w/ammeter, LED headlights and tail light, Custom 2” receiver hitch, Custom pull behind paint matched trailer
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  #14  
Old 10-28-2019, 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Cub70 View Post
I do like that clutch/drive shaft assembly from Zach Kerber! I am actually looking at that exact same setup in the near future!

With that 6 pin clutch, you will not put the anti rattle springs on.
I plan to upgrade to 6 pin. Bit for now I'm gonna use 3 pin to get me going. Even tho I'll be using 3 pin, my new clutch disc will he predrilled for 6 anyway.
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  #15  
Old 10-28-2019, 09:58 PM
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I plan to upgrade to 6 pin. Bit for now I'm gonna use 3 pin to get me going. Even tho I'll be using 3 pin, my new clutch disc will he predrilled for 6 anyway.
Get rid of those worthless anti rattle springs, I know you said your clutch is worn out, but by removing those springs will help solve the symptoms you listed in your first post.
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1964 Cub Cadet 70 (Full Restoration), Upgraded/Rebuilt K181 8hp engine, custom exhaust stack/flapper, NEW clutch, brand NEW steering column, Custom made wiring harness w/ammeter, LED headlights and tail light, Custom 2” receiver hitch, Custom pull behind paint matched trailer
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  #16  
Old 10-29-2019, 07:53 AM
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So, I'll have to do it when I change the fluid next time. I just refilled it.
You will have to split the tractor to get to get the plate off in order to get to that seal.

So with the ass end of the tractor out, you simply rotate it so the input shaft is pointing up and the plate is on top. No need to drain any oil.

Besides, if you are going to be doing clutch work, isn't this the better time to change a seal instead of taking it all back apart somewhere down the road?

And how often do you plan on changing rear end oil in a gear drive Cub anyway?
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  #17  
Old 10-30-2019, 12:41 AM
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You will have to split the tractor to get to get the plate off in order to get to that seal.

So with the ass end of the tractor out, you simply rotate it so the input shaft is pointing up and the plate is on top. No need to drain any oil.

Besides, if you are going to be doing clutch work, isn't this the better time to change a seal instead of taking it all back apart somewhere down the road?

And how often do you plan on changing rear end oil in a gear drive Cub anyway?
That is a good idea. I didnt think of that.
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