1450 mule drive - Page 2

_DX3_ · #11 03-30-2012, 06:37 PM

Just go get some new rod, cut to length and drill new holes and put it in.

krhoover · #12 03-30-2012, 07:58 PM

DX3, you mean just drill new holes in the bracket away from the worn ones? Or do you mean drill new holes in the rod for the cotter pins and use the existing holes that are in the bracket the rod goes thru?

_DX3_ · #13 03-30-2012, 08:28 PM

If I am understanding correctly the rod that I have a red line running too is worn? I am saying go buy some round stock at the local hardware store and cut it to the correct length, then mark and drill holes where needed and reinstall the brackets and spring and cotter pins.

krhoover · #14 03-30-2012, 08:37 PM

That is correct, the rod is wore and I have a new one to replace it. The holes in the sides of the bracket that the rod goes thru are egg shaped, that is what I'm wondering how to fix them.

_DX3_ · #15 03-30-2012, 08:42 PM

Ahh, now I understand. You could do a heavy washer welded to the outside and if enough room also on the inside.

krhoover · #16 03-30-2012, 08:44 PM

Thanks, thats what I had in mind.

krhoover · #17 03-31-2012, 12:37 PM

Put the new rod in today and went out and mowed. for about 10 min, then the belt broke. The tension bar hammering the whole time!!! I have about had it with this thing. When I first put the new rod in and tried it, I didn't have the blades on the mower and it didn't hammer in and out. Put the blades on and it started. I put the blades on the edge of a flat piece of 1/8' stock, they seemed balanced, the pulleys all seem fine. What could be going on here. I don't want to just start throwing $$$ at this thing guessing. Tractor supply has some pulleys out there similer to the two on the mule drive, anyone ever try them? I will get a new belt at the dealer on monday, I guess and go from there. Any ideas welcomed. Thanks

hydrocub · #18 04-04-2012, 03:34 PM

03-22-2012, 09:20 PM
_DX3_
Moderator Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Richmond, Kentucky
Posts: 3,961

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Yes the rod is straight all the way thru. It's actually not too hard with the spring. You will notice there is one or maybe two cotter pins holding the pulleys in position. I would start with the one that uses the wrench to tighten it and just slowly progress from there. It's all pretty self explanatory when you get into it. I've done three of them in the last couple of years and not had any problems putting them back together.
__________________
DWayne

1973: 128, ag tires, 3pt. lift, spring assist, lights, 42" Deck

"Smoker" CCC 1572(982D), Cat. 0 lift, Fluid filled ags, V61 fronts, 50C deck
12" Brinly Cat 0 Plow, 42" Agri Fab Yard Sweeper, 10" Brinly plow, Brinly Disc, custom hydraulic lift disc set, Custom DX Cat 0 Cultivator

DX3 ...what do you mean by " i would start with the one one that uses the wrench to tighten " .... redoing my 1/2 " rod is why I ask

_DX3_ · #19 04-04-2012, 03:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hydrocub

03-22-2012, 09:20 PM
_DX3_
Moderator Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Richmond, Kentucky
Posts: 3,961

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Yes the rod is straight all the way thru. It's actually not too hard with the spring. You will notice there is one or maybe two cotter pins holding the pulleys in position. I would start with the one that uses the wrench to tighten it and just slowly progress from there. It's all pretty self explanatory when you get into it. I've done three of them in the last couple of years and not had any problems putting them back together.
__________________
DWayne

1973: 128, ag tires, 3pt. lift, spring assist, lights, 42" Deck

"Smoker" CCC 1572(982D), Cat. 0 lift, Fluid filled ags, V61 fronts, 50C deck
12" Brinly Cat 0 Plow, 42" Agri Fab Yard Sweeper, 10" Brinly plow, Brinly Disc, custom hydraulic lift disc set, Custom DX Cat 0 Cultivator

DX3 ...what do you mean by " i would start with the one one that uses the wrench to tighten " .... redoing my 1/2 " rod is why I ask

The mule drive pulley that you adjust using a wrench. I would start by removing that one first then the one with the spring attached.

krhoover · #20 04-04-2012, 06:09 PM

I had no problem what so ever putting the rod in. That has me wondering about the spring, it has hardly any tension on it. Not sure what to think about that. It was stated that it should have a 90 degree twist in it, there was none. The spring had a small amount of tension on it, but I mean small. I marked a line across the spring before taking the rod out so that if needed I could load the spring back to where it was, but it didn't hardly move. How long is the piece of the straight part of the spring that sits on the mule drive be. Could it be wore down or broke that there is not enough tension on the adjuster. Should I have tried to load the spring somehow. I bought three new blades with a new belt the other day at the dealer. The old blades have been ground down to about half of the width of new ones. My hope is that the blades are out of balance or bent. I can't think any of the pulleys on the deck are bad as the belt that drives them works fine. I need to get this sorted out.