2072 Power Steering

[Hairtrigger]

Is the steering cylinder welded or threaded?

If it is threaded together it would be a much easier rebuild than the steering box

I am guessing it is welded as in meant to be a throwaway unit

[R Bedell]

Is the steering cylinder welded or threaded?

The one on the tractor is welded.

When I first started on the project, I jumped to the conclusion that is was the Ross Gear Power Steering unit. I done a ton of research until this week when Oak mentioned it might be the cylinder.

I have been doing some thinking about this. How do I determine if the problem lies in the Unit or the Cylinder.

So, with my limited experience with hydraulics, I got to thinking. If I raise the Front Axle off the ground with no front wheels touching, with the engine running, the Power Steering Unit ( if working properly ) should apply pressure to the Cylinder and hold the steering firm. If I can turn the wheels (L to R and vice versa), then I assume this means there is an internal leakage within the cylinder. Is my thought process correct ??

[Oak]

I haven't tried that but I'm 95% sure your issue is the cylinder. They are all welded but rebuildable. Kelly(Cubs & Boxers) has rebuilt them. The kits listed are only to seal them so if your not leaking I would test the cylinder first. Every power steering cub I have kind of wonders around while driving because they are hydraulic steering and not hydraulic assisted.

[darkminion_17]

if you grind the weld smooth, you can use a pipe cutter to cut off the one end, then fix then reweld the end.

[ol'George]

I'll try to make this simple.
Put a catch pan under the cylinder like a a clean dish pan.
You can leave the cyl on the tractor or take it off, but leave the hoses attached.(loosen them first because it is easier)
Extend the cylinder or retract the cyl,-- your choice.
While the engine is running, lets say you extend the ram,(by turning the steering wheel,) we know you are putting pressure on the piston end of the rod to make the rod extend. We also know that the oil in the rod end of the cyl. is allowed to return to the reservoir through the line/spool valve allowing the cylinder to extend. - this is just common sense.
If you remove the hose, on the rod end of the cylinder while it is at full extend no oil will flow at the rod end because the "O" ring or seal, on the piston prevents oil from bypassing the piston.
Now you will get dripping oil at the rod end fitting from residual oil in the line and cyl but if the piston seal is good and holding you will not get a continual "flow of oil" from the rod end of the cylinder.
If you get a continual flow, then the piston seal is bypassing because it is defective.
Finishing up:
Now while holding the steering wheel at full extend of the cylinder you can shut the engine off.

If you allow the steering wheel to move some in the other direction, with the engine running, oil will be directed at the rod end and leak out the disconnected hose prolly making a mess unless you used a big enough pan.

If you think about what I have written it should make sense because it is similar to HVAC you are familiar with.
I hope I have explained it so it is clear. It would be easier if you had a helper.

Oh, it is normal for the steering wheel to turn slightly, during not only normal operation, but also while testing, as there is an allowable "leakage" in the "pump" (steering gear assy)

Clear as mud?

[Hairtrigger]

Well said!

I'll try to make this simple.
Put a catch pan under the cylinder like a a clean dish pan.
You can leave the cyl on the tractor or take it off, but leave the hoses attached.(loosen them first because it is easier)
Extend the cylinder or retract the cyl,-- your choice.
While the engine is running, lets say you extend the ram,(by turning the steering wheel,) we know you are putting pressure on the piston end of the rod to make the rod extend. We also know that the oil in the rod end of the cyl. is allowed to return to the reservoir through the line/spool valve allowing the cylinder to extend. - this is just common sense.
If you remove the hose, on the rod end of the cylinder while it is at full extend no oil will flow at the rod end because the "O" ring or seal, on the piston prevents oil from bypassing the piston.
Now you will get dripping oil at the rod end fitting from residual oil in the line and cyl but if the piston seal is good and holding you will not get a continual "flow of oil" from the rod end of the cylinder.
If you get a continual flow, then the piston seal is bypassing because it is defective.
Finishing up:
Now while holding the steering wheel at full extend of the cylinder you can shut the engine off.

If you allow the steering wheel to move some in the other direction, with the engine running, oil will be directed at the rod end and leak out the disconnected hose prolly making a mess unless you used a big enough pan.

If you think about what I have written it should make sense because it is similar to HVAC you are familiar with.
I hope I have explained it so it is clear. It would be easier if you had a helper.

Oh, it is normal for the steering wheel to turn slightly, during not only normal operation, but also while testing, as there is an allowable "leakage" in the "pump" (steering gear assy)

Clear as mud?

[romans]

Custom Cylinders International out of Kentucky I believe. I have a PS cylinder leaking currently and was told that rebuilding can be hit or miss since it is welded. I priced a replacement at $280, at local dealer. So with part number in hand, I went to googling and came across this place mentioned above with a "too good to be true" price. I called them confirming that the cylinder would work. Gentleman on the phone told me that they make this cylinder for Cub Cadet and only difference between his and the one from dealer is his isn't painted yellow yet. I believe it was $135 ish out the door. I haven't even taken out of the box yet, just received it last week. Options usually aren't terrible.

[R Bedell]

UPDATE.....

Yesterday, I got a new replacement cylinder. When pulling the original cylinder out, I compared the two by pulling on the ram. Big difference in the resistance. I am guessing that after 35 yrs, the seals on the original cylinder, are just worn out. Anyway, got the install new one installed, and took the tractor for a spin. All is well and good.

I would like to thank those who responded with comments and suggestions. This was my first attempt at "power steering". Through this process, I gained some knowledge on how this system works.

Thanks again,

[West Valley G]

Good to hear Roland, where did you get the cylinder from. I have one
that is quite bad and I just live with it but now you got me a thinkin.

Ken

[R Bedell]

I got my cylinder from an OCC member. If I would go outside of OCC, I would go to: "Custom Cylinders International out of Kentucky. " See: Cylinder