1450 Front Axle Play at Pivot Pin

[AL Farmall Boy]

Originally Posted by twoton

Shimming is definitely one of the common fixes.

Ok. You guys have talked me into the bolt. I just didn’t want to fatigue the connection point by “bending” it back in place with a bolt and it working it way loose again at some point. I think you’ve all talked me into doing the bolt. I will looks at the situation closer and see if I could use a bronze washer on the inside.

[RLause]

I think without the washer you will have a wider bearing surface with the axle inside the channel.

[ol'George]

Originally Posted by RLause

I think without the washer you will have a wider bearing surface with the axle inside the channel.

I couldn't agree more, the bolt keeps the channel tight and allows for more axle side support.
Just make sure you use a bolt too long and cut if off the correct length so the full diameter of the bolt protrudes not only fully through the axle, but the channel also.

[johncub7172]

I used a shim, that had the same i.d as the o.d of the pivot pin, and also had the same outside diameter as the surface area of the axle, as it would contact the c-channel. I took a flap wheel on my 4" angle grinder to smooth down to the correct shim thickness as to slip in between. A new keeper pin for the axle pivot pin, and it's been a snug repair for 4 years now.

My 1211 has the bolt, but every now and then, I still need to tighten up the nut, probably because the nut is worn.

[AL Farmall Boy]

Originally Posted by ol'George

I couldn't agree more, the bolt keeps the channel tight and allows for more axle side support.
Just make sure you use a bolt too long and cut if off the correct length so the full diameter of the bolt protrudes not only fully through the axle, but the channel also.

Are you saying to get a bolt extra long enough to protrude through the channel, then cut of off with just enough threads for the locknut to tighten?

[ol'George]

Originally Posted by AL Farmall Boy

Are you saying to get a bolt extra long enough to protrude through the channel, then cut of off with just enough threads for the locknut to tighten?

That is correct.
As you know, where the threads are on a bolt, is a bit smaller diameter.
You don't want that in the axle or the channel support either.
You want the full diameter of the bolt in the axle as well as the supporting channel.
If you have to add a washer under the head of the nut,
do so to accomplish that.
OR: add a bit more thread on the bolt with a die to make it just the correct length.(what I do)
If you have to thread the bolt a bit, do that before you cut the bolt off as it makes it easier to keep the thread straight.

Also check to see that the bolt head is not too tall that it rubs on the oil pan.
This varies with different models of tractors if the bolt is put in from the front.
It is acceptable to shorten the bolt head at least by 1/2 of it's height if needed, as there is no large stress on it in this application.

[AL Farmall Boy]

Originally Posted by ol'George

That is correct.
As you know, where the threads are on a bolt, is a bit smaller diameter.
You don't want that in the axle or the channel support either.
You want the full diameter of the bolt in the axle as well as the supporting channel.
If you have to add a washer under the head of the nut,
do so to accomplish that.
OR: add a bit more thread on the bolt with a die to make it just the correct length.(what I do)
If you have to thread the bolt a bit, do that before you cut the bolt off as it makes it easier to keep the thread straight.

Also check to see that the bolt head is not too tall that it rubs on the oil pan.
This varies with different models of tractors if the bolt is put in from the front.
It is acceptable to shorten the bolt head at least by 1/2 of it's height if needed, as there is no large stress on it in this application.

10-4 I got it!

[CADplans]

What do I remember about simply rotating the pin 180 degrees and eliminating the slop??

That is after using a bolt/nut to eliminate the fore/aft slop,,,,

I think the hardness as well as surface finish of the pin is important for 40 year life,,

I guess few of these machines will still get heavy use for more than a dozen more years,,
so, in that case, the undersized, rough surface of a bolt will be OK,,,

[AL Farmall Boy]

Originally Posted by R Bedell

One of our Members cured the problem like Richard was talking about.

Is that the nut that is ground down to a round shape? It is hard to tell. I see you should use a Grade 5 3/4" bolt, but what type of nut and what about a flat washer or lock washer?

[ol'George]

Originally Posted by AL Farmall Boy

Is that the nut that is ground down to a round shape? It is hard to tell. I see you should use a Grade 5 3/4" bolt, but what type of nut and what about a flat washer or lock washer?

A self locking nut will eliminate a lock washer.
Or you could go to the trouble of drilling the bolt and using a castle nut.