147 is Running: Evaluation Pics Plus Stens Engine Rebuild?

[jmack]

Originally Posted by westofb

jmack, invest in an impact driver, usually you can get one for less than $10.00. They are like a screw driver on steroids, they come with different bits to fit different headed screws. To use one, select the appropriate tip, set it to turn counter clockwise (lefty lousy), then strike the end with a big hammer. It works on the same principle of an impact air gun, the shock of the blow sets the tip into the slot and loosens the screw at the same time. I would soak them with PB Blaster for a day or two in advance. If that method fails, you can cut off the sides of the heads with a dremel and try a vice grip on it, if you go this route, heating the nut/ bolt will help.

I got all of mine out (149, but same set up as yours) by using method one, except for one stubborn one that required option 2. I bought stainless button allen head bolts to replace the screws, if you do likewise, use antiseize on the threads to keep them from galling in place.

Thanks for the tip! I will give that a shot.

John

[CC1650Dave]

I got my footrest screws with my 1/2" drive electric impact wrench (after some trial and error.)

1/2" to 3/8" adapter to 1/4" adapter with a #3 phillips driver in it. It popped them right out, except for the one I stripped.

I was actually able to get that one with the vise grips, without even grinding flats on it.

[TheSaturnV]

Originally Posted by jmack

Nice 147, looks to be a great restoration project. I have one available in my area but the electric lift is completely gone. What are your plans for bringing it back?

My electric lift is completely gone as well. My plan is to bring it all the way back to when it was new, keeping it as original as possible. I may wind up with a lift from Northern Tool or the like, but whatever I install will get painted Cub yellow.

A quick check showed me the parts we not easy to come by, but if you were patient stuff comes up on eBay and sponsors occasionally... didn't seem like a $50 expense though.

Yeah, would be nice to get away with $50 on that.....

Also when you pull the foot rests apart let me know how you do it. My 127 is completely rusted up there... so far I haven't found a large enough screwdriver to properly turn the bolts. Also complicating matters is the nuts are spot welded to the bottom of the tin.

A friend of mine with a great youtube series on restoring a 129, took his old Cub drive shaft, held the end against the screws and gave it a small spot weld. The whole thing acted like a big T wrench and pulled the screws out. I'll try the impact first, then the welder comes out.

[TheSaturnV]

So my tentative plan is to buy the ebay kit, and get a Kohler OEM head gasket. Machine shop quoted $135 to bore, turn the crank and lap the valves. Seems like about $250 will yield a nice new 14hp Kohler. I don't even consider what I spent buying the tractor itself, in this case $125. If you took a certain mentality, you would never spend $250 to build the engine on a $125 tractor.

These are IH Cubs, and if I come in at $800 to restore it, I take that number and compare it to some used running craigslist garden tractor, or maybe a big box mower. I'll take a like new 147 for $800 any day.

[Matt G.]

If I were you I'd get a Kohler rod, too. Who knows what kind of shortcuts they took to make the aftermarket ones really cheap.

[TheSaturnV]

Someone did mention a broken Stens rod that revealed an open cavity.

[CC1650Dave]

I'm going with the Stens kit on my 1650. I've read all the opinions one way or another as well.

To take the specific example, as much as I respect Matt's input - have there ever been cases of Kohler rods failing?

I ran a manufacturing company. Defects happen, and no amount of inspection prevents it. Even the most proactive quality program finds itself with defects.

[TheSaturnV]

Couldn't agree more.

I read a really thoughtful and well-founded youtube comment the other day where the fellow said Kohler's were "complete junk" and he was going to repower with a Briggs.



I've got a 1211 in the barn right now with an original Kohler, and either the rod or crank is broken. Plenty of Kohler rods have broken over the years of use.

[Matt G.]

ALL aluminum connecting rods will eventually fatigue and break if the rest of the engine lasts long enough. For all we know, the people that make the aftermarket rods may be using a lower-quality alloy with a shorter fatigue life. When I restored that 100 a couple of years ago, I bought an aftermarket rod that was supposed to be for a K241, but it wouldn't fit the CC oil pan, as the dipper was too long- meant for a non-cub spec engine. I bought a Kohler rod (only about $50 at Tulsa Engine Warehouse) and was able to compare them side-by-side. They were a slightly different color, which to me means different composition. That ebay guy may have a great feedback rating, but rating engine parts before the engine has much for hours on it is pointless, IMO.

It's your tractor to do as you please with. I would rather have a Kohler rod in mine. The only premature failure of one I can think of at the moment was a friend of my dad's 1250 that threw the rod when it was about a year old. I've had probably half a dozen blown engines, most of which had a broken OEM rod. However, none of those were the rod's fault. Several were from too little oil, and the remainder were due to the carelessness of the person re-assembling the engine after a rebuild.