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#11
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Quote:
Looking through the parts list for the #2 tiller, it looks like those were eliminated on the newer tiller? If everything is turning except for the tines, maybe the chain #6 broke? As heavy as the chains are inside that case, I'm wondering if they break very often? Hopefully someone familiar with #2 tillers can add some input. (If you haven't already, start a new thread for your particular tiller..... I'll be interested to follow!) (And, don't be sorry for resurrecting an old thread..... if it helps you and/or someone else, it's all good.)
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nra1ifer Cub Cadet 123, Wheel Horse C160, Craftsman PGT9000, Speedex 1631 |
#12
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I looked at the parts manual and thought both tillers looked to be the same in that area, that is why I asked here. I will start a new thread when I get a chance to tear it apart.
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#13
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Those are not "shear pins" like you originally stated. The only pins that could be considered shear pins, are on the drive shaft for the tines. I'm just saying that your original post was misleading in trying to describe what happened. Besides, they don't put shear pins inside a gear box. They are on the outside, easy to get to and designed to break in the event of an overload. Pretty amazing really that it broke the spirol pins instead of just slipping the belt. I've gotten rocks jammed in my tiller several times, and hit broken off and buried steel "T" posts. It just slipped the belt. As a note, I suggest putting a little more slack on one of the belts so it can slip before breaking internal parts. Just tight enough not to slip while tilling is tight enough. |
#14
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Well, DANG IT!!! Looks like I get to fix this again.....
I was tilling with it today. Just near the end, I believe this pin sheared again. My mistake: the belt tensioner on the tiller must have been way too tight.... should have slipped if the tines got in a bind.
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nra1ifer Cub Cadet 123, Wheel Horse C160, Craftsman PGT9000, Speedex 1631 |
#15
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Got the tiller fixed today while my awesome other half mowed the yard. As I suspected, the two roll pins had sheared (Item #35 in the #1 Tiller parts list). Not a fun job, but better than last time since I knew how to take the case apart.
Now........ if it'll just dry out enough to USE it..... maybe tomorrow evening! It has been so wet in NW Arkansas that I haven't been able to get ANYTHING planted yet.....
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nra1ifer Cub Cadet 123, Wheel Horse C160, Craftsman PGT9000, Speedex 1631 |
#16
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Yea!!!! Got to till the garden with the Cub 123 and newly repaired #1 tiller! The soil was PERFECT for tilling......... not a day too soon, either!
I cannot begin to say how much I like the job this tiller does!
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nra1ifer Cub Cadet 123, Wheel Horse C160, Craftsman PGT9000, Speedex 1631 |
#17
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Good to hear you got it fixed.
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#18
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That look really nice! What's going in the ground this year?
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#19
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Thank you.
I hope to still get some potatoes in, green beans, lettuce, sweet potatoes, summer and winter squash, cantaloupe, beets, okra.....no tomatoes or corn..... used to, but wife discovered that stuff makes her body hurt. I used to grow a LOT of food....... not real sure how in the world I kept up with it all, but I did. Since I have the space, I like to plant so I can utilize the tillers and cultivators I have. It's still a lot to keep up with, but usually great results. We pressure can as much as possible.
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nra1ifer Cub Cadet 123, Wheel Horse C160, Craftsman PGT9000, Speedex 1631 |
#20
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He's using a #1 tiller w/one RH extension and working from left to right.
If he worked from right to left, the unit would always be in untilled ground and there would not be any tracks in the tilled portion. Or, If he added a LH extension, there would not be any tracks at all in the tilled part. It would be the same as using a #2 tiller in that case. The wheel tracks are OK, You can use the space between them to plant. Potatoes come to mind, you already have the rows hilled, just push the spuds into the soft tilled soil and cover them a little.! |
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