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#11
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It would be nice if we were on the same page. Just what schematic are you using ??
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[B]Roland Bedell[/B] CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 [SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]Buy:[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"] Made in the USA[/COLOR][/B] [/SIZE]:American Flag 1: |
#12
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The one spndncash posted on page 1 as an attachment
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#13
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Since we are "grasping at straws" I will share a story of the very recent
past. Working on 22 horse Kohler in a ZTR. I had no knowledge of the machine. I got it running, not well but at least running. Every time I took off the E brake the engine would kill. Acted like every safety switch I ever battled with. After checking out all the safeties I was no closer to an answer. On a what if, I checked compression. 150 one side and 30 on the other. Pulled valve cover and the intake rocker arm had come loose. Fixed that and had compression of 150. Problem resolved. Engine didn't have the oomph to handle the load of the hydros when engaged. Not saying that is the issue but does the engine have the get up and go it needs. Good Luck Ken |
#14
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Well, that Wiring Diagram is for a Z force 50, NOT a RZT 50.
I wonder which one ?
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[B]Roland Bedell[/B] CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 [SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]Buy:[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"] Made in the USA[/COLOR][/B] [/SIZE]:American Flag 1: |
#15
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If you can find a tag somewhere on the wiring harness to identify it,
the RZT50 drawings at this site have the harness numbers. It might help narrow it down. https://www.ccpartsnmore.com/cub-cad...ing-schematics |
#16
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Hazarding a guess... It seems the system of switches, if in non compliance, grounds out the magneto thus killing engine. That being said and assuming switches are good, maybe a wire has damaged insulation and grounding out.
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Two 125's and a 124 all with 42" decks Plow blade #2 Cart QA36 snowthower |
#17
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I provided a schematic based on it's resemblance to my factory number 53AA5B7P712 commonly called 23/50 RZ KOH I have two of these. It has stickers that state Zforce. I also have one zforce48fab. It is a 20HP kohler with a 48 inch fabricated deck which is electrically the same.
I would think it is the seat switch (or wiring) or the deck switch that is faulty. the routing of the seat switch wiring is crap - the rubber bumpers for the seat have a tendency to squish the seat safety wiring causing it to fail. |
#18
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Quote:
What I found odd about it being the seat switch is I can turn the engine on. Shouldn’t that fail if the seat switch is not indicating seated? I’m halfway to calling the shop and paying them to fix this lol |
#19
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if the parking brake is engaged and the blades are off and the steer arms are out in the park position they mower will start with no one in the seat.
basically either a butt needs to be in the seat or the parking brake must be set for the mower to run once started with the parking brake on..if you pull either steer lever off its perch the engine shuts off no matter if someone is in the seat or not once started with the parking brake on..if you start the blades the motor shuts off if the parking brake is not engaged and noone is in the seat the motor shuts off if the parking brake is not set the mower will not crank even with someone in the seat the reverse switches only shut off the blades they do not alter the engine operation - both steer levers must be in reverse to shut the blades off so steering is fine reversing shuts down the blades |
#20
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sorry, I should have stated the seat switch sounds to be operating correctly. the PTO switch may be the culprit.
since it starts you can easily test every other switch. parking brake on - start the mower. if you pull either lever off the perch it should shut down the engine. if so they work if you start the mower arms on the perches, shut off the parking brake it should still run until you get off the seat. if you get up and it shuts down the switch works this leaves the PTO switch 925-1716A. and they are a bit pricy for what they are. |
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