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#11
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Agreed. That's what it says in manual. 20 degrees . Most kohlers will run very well like that. If your doesnt, you can use a timing light to set the points. You sandblasted the flywheel. You say you didnt see Mark's. Did you see any letters?
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Cooperino 100, 104,125, 126, 2x129's, 804, 1211, 1641 |
#12
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Curios of your method...how did you time them?
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Cooperino 100, 104,125, 126, 2x129's, 804, 1211, 1641 |
#13
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Yep, R Bedell did and that is what I'm going to do to mark the flywheel.
And the way I used to time my race cars was to adjust the distributor about the same way you'd adjust a carburetor. Seat of the pants dyno, that never worked to good. But it sure was fun! |
#14
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Quote:
I've tuned all my carbs on vehicles that meant anything to me IE classic cars, and race cars with a vaccum gauge.
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Cooperino 100, 104,125, 126, 2x129's, 804, 1211, 1641 |
#15
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There is an "S" (for spark) and a "T" (for top dead center) on the very outside flat edge of the flywheel.
You have to look close to see them. Should not be an issue finding them if the engine is out of the tractor. Very hard to see them w/the engine in place on a QL. |
#16
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Timing marks on flywheel search.
Old post to respond to but I noticed that the timing marks were 90 degrees from the crankshaft keyway of the flywheel. Seems the keyway of the crankshaft is in alignment with the rod journal of the crank on my K321..
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#17
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Thanks Donscub
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