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  #11  
Old 11-18-2020, 01:29 PM
finsruskw finsruskw is offline
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That lever can be welded and resurfaced on the back side
By the looks of that lever, the way it's all beat up on the edges, you have severe hanger and pin issues as well, and probably driveshaft, coupler, & rag joints too.
You better pony up w/some cash cause that's what it's gonna take to fix that rig.
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  #12  
Old 11-18-2020, 01:31 PM
Wayne Wayne is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by finsruskw View Post
That lever can be welded and resurfaced.

But not by me...
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  #13  
Old 11-18-2020, 04:50 PM
Mike McKown Mike McKown is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayne View Post
But not by me...
So, you're not going to buy a new one and you're not going to fix the one you have?

Are you going to part that plug out?
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  #14  
Old 11-19-2020, 12:10 PM
Wayne Wayne is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by finsruskw View Post
That lever can be welded and resurfaced on the back side
By the looks of that lever, the way it's all beat up on the edges, you have severe hanger and pin issues as well, and probably driveshaft, coupler, & rag joints too.
You better pony up w/some cash cause that's what it's gonna take to fix that rig.
Yeah I guess I'll just buy a new lever, probably won't cost any more than having someone repair mine. The hanger looks good to me but I should rule out other issues.

One concern is that I was not able to get the rear driveshaft collar off when I disassembled this a year and a half ago. I was only able to get the front pin out, freeing the drive shaft. Looking at it now the collar is quite wobbly, I hope that shaft from the tranny isn't ruined too, but it might be. I'll have to get that collar off to be sure. Whats the best way to do that without damaging the shaft? I tried my best to drive the pin out but it wouldn't budge. Is there a trick for stubborn ones or will I have to drill it?

And I noticed Merk used a clamp on collar in his rebuild, which I think I'd like to do too, to avoid such issues in the future. There are several different kinds (1 piece, 2 piece, extra wide etc), is one of them best for that?
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  #15  
Old 11-19-2020, 12:52 PM
finsruskw finsruskw is offline
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Check the hole in the hanger as well as the pin for wear.
And support the driveshaft while driving the spirol pins out to avoid damage to the transmission input bearings.
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  #16  
Old 11-19-2020, 01:01 PM
Ambush Ambush is offline
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If you have three hands and some patience you can use a C-clamp and a socket on the back side as a pin pusher. Use a bolt as the push pin. If that doesn't make sense I'll post a pic.
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  #17  
Old 11-19-2020, 01:19 PM
Ambush Ambush is offline
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This can be very frustrating, but not as frustrating as wrecking something else by pounding on it. Start with the shortest bolt possible with the biggest head. And way better than the socket is to get a 3/4" or 1" piece of pipe (or whatever size will fits your clamp) and hacksaw a deep V in one end. It won't wobble around like the socket.

If you have lots of pins, maybe buy a cheap pusher?
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  #18  
Old 11-19-2020, 01:26 PM
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Cubcadet_107 Cubcadet_107 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ambush View Post
This can be very frustrating, but not as frustrating as wrecking something else by pounding on it. Start with the shortest bolt possible and the biggest head.

If you have lots of pins, maybe buy a cheap pusher?
That is an incredibly good idea!

I will definitely use this when I finish removing the disk brake system from my old 107 transaxle and swap it over to the replacement. Gotta get the disk brakes back on it otherwise it's not original enough
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  #19  
Old 11-19-2020, 05:48 PM
finsruskw finsruskw is offline
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I'm sure that would work......IF you have t0he room for all that extra gear!
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  #20  
Old 11-19-2020, 07:09 PM
Wayne Wayne is offline
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Its a tight squeeze but doable...but the real problem is finding the third hand. Normally duct tape is my third hand, but in this case I really need 4.
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