Drive System Fluid question

[Oak]

I don't think it will matter but I will say this. Hytran is great if you can drain the fluid and scrape out all the crap that gels up on the bottom. You can't do that on your GT2554 like you can the old stuff. There is no rear cover to remove. Look at the Deere stuff, they don't want all the moisture coagulating on the bottom because their differentials are like the newer Cub stuff, they gotta be split to be cleaned. +1 on the synthetic 15-40. I think I will be switching over to that on all my stuff for now on.

What paint scheme are you going to do on this one " 2016 Stanley Cup Champs"

[ironman]

Originally Posted by aagitch

I'd use a cheaper knock off brand for a hydro-gear. Dang hytran is so expensive these days unless you can get it in bulk. I missed the part where you mentioned you already had some extra on hand so my response was useless anyway sorry about that.

Yes, have some but not enough. I can always save it for another project.
The knock off brand, TSC's Traveller brand for instance, crossed my mind. I'm trying to find out if it has any advantage over synthetic motor oil.

Originally Posted by Oak

I don't think it will matter but I will say this. Hytran is great if you can drain the fluid and scrape out all the crap that gels up on the bottom. You can't do that on your GT2554 like you can the old stuff. There is no rear cover to remove. Look at the Deere stuff, they don't want all the moisture coagulating on the bottom because their differentials are like the newer Cub stuff, they gotta be split to be cleaned. +1 on the synthetic 15-40. I think I will be switching over to that on all my stuff for now on.

What paint scheme are you going to do on this one " 2016 Stanley Cup Champs"

A great point about cleaning out. At least with cheaper fluid you can do changes more often and hopefully diminish build up.

No paint job for this one, once I got it all spic 'n spanned it is in pretty nice shape. Except for the plastic hood, that is. PO had a garage heater pointed the wrong way and a little too close and gave it a Chernoble. Hood is usable but beyond repair to make it look nice so I'm on the lookout for one but they seem to be like hen's teeth.

[ironman]

I'd like to thank all those who gave input to my question and also put some closure on this thread by informing those with the same question that I decided to go with the Traveller Premium Universal Trans/Hydraulic Fluid available at Tractor Supply. My thinking is that with the drain plug and ease of draining the rear end, fluid changes can be done more often and economically thus negating any inferiority this product may have compared to my other options. At $15 for two gallons vs. Cub Cadet Drive System Fluid at about $45 for one gallon it becomes a no brainer (7 qts. needed). Even good quality motor oil would cost more.

Along the economic line, I found that Fram makes the equivalent of the Cub 923-3014. It is a PH2844 and I got it on eBay for $7.79 from Auto Zone.com (free Shipping) vs. the Cub filter for about $18 (or a NAPA 1410 at $14 locally).

So I'm thinking $23 for a trans transfusion every year or two beats high quality/ high/cost changes done less often. Hope I'm right. So far, all is working perfect (but not many hours yet).

I'd welcome your opinions.

[Terry C]

Originally Posted by ironman

I'd like to thank all those who gave input to my question and also put some closure on this thread by informing those with the same question that I decided to go with the Traveller Premium Universal Trans/Hydraulic Fluid available at Tractor Supply. My thinking is that with the drain plug and ease of draining the rear end, fluid changes can be done more often and economically thus negating any inferiority this product may have compared to my other options. At $15 for two gallons vs. Cub Cadet Drive System Fluid at about $45 for one gallon it becomes a no brainer (7 qts. needed). Even good quality motor oil would cost more.

Along the economic line, I found that Fram makes the equivalent of the Cub 923-3014. It is a PH2844 and I got it on eBay for $7.79 from Auto Zone.com (free Shipping) vs. the Cub filter for about $18 (or a NAPA 1410 at $14 locally).

So I'm thinking $23 for a trans transfusion every year or two beats high quality/ high/cost changes done less often. Hope I'm right. So far, all is working perfect (but not many hours yet).

I'd welcome your opinions.

I like your theory of changing more often with generic fluid vs longer with Hytran
I have put it in a couple of tractors and really can't tell the difference till it gets really cold outside. Hytran isn't as thick in the cold I think,so less noise from cavitation. This is only my observations and your results may vary.