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  #11  
Old 09-14-2024, 06:08 PM
KMCub KMCub is offline
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Thanks for the info, I am trying to build a grader. Because I am putting the engine over the axles with the front becoming the back the rotation is opposite from original.
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  #12  
Old 09-14-2024, 07:00 PM
Ambush Ambush is online now
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Is there something you don't like about the way Sawdustdad (in Delta's link above) moved his engine back and ran off the front pulley. Pretty efficient and straight forward.
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  #13  
Old 09-14-2024, 07:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KMCub View Post
I have seen both of those. Unfortunately they both have the motor spun 180deg in the engine bay
On Sawdustdad's build, the engine has the original orientation, it's moved back and over the axle with the "front' pully over the hydro input. The grill support and hood are backwards. If your doing all that fabbing anyway it should be fairly easy to maintain the hood orientation as well. Not sure how you'll close in the back to make it look "factory".

Maybe post some sketches or mock ups so people get a better idea of what you're aiming for.
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  #14  
Old 09-14-2024, 07:47 PM
KMCub KMCub is offline
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Because I'm using a 1250 for the hood and side panels the engine will need to stay oriented with the hood to keep the exhaust and cooling air going out the grill. I considered changing the orientation in the engine bay but things like the air cleaner have their own bump in the sheet metal side panels which makes it a lot harder to spin the engine in the bay.
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  #15  
Old 09-14-2024, 08:03 PM
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I guess I'm just missing something in what you're trying to accomplish.
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  #16  
Old 09-15-2024, 01:20 PM
KMCub KMCub is offline
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I have attached a sketch of the issue. The most basic way to explain it is the engine from the factory had the flywheel and the hydro facing each other which means the input to the hydro spins CCW. I am trying to put the engine over the hydro with the flywheel and the hydro facing the same direction which will turn the input the opposite direction. I cannot turn the engine to use the PTO end of the engine because the sheet metal doesn't work with the side panels.Grader Engine Orientation.jpg
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  #17  
Old 09-15-2024, 01:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ambush View Post
If you change the input rotation, then you have to change the pump lens plate. That's the round flat bronze on one side plate that the barrel face rides on. They are rotation specific. CW or CCW. It will work at very low rpm but at operating rpm it will be noisy then self destruct.

Why do you want to run it backwards?
I know you guys are pretty far along in the grader topic on this thread.... but I want to backtrack and ask you (Ambush) this for my own edification: You advised the OP against changing the rotation because the lens plate are rotation specific unless some changes were made. I was also wondering about the charge pump? Isn't that rotation specific?
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  #18  
Old 09-15-2024, 01:25 PM
KMCub KMCub is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ambush View Post
If you change the input rotation, then you have to change the pump lens plate. That's the round flat bronze on one side plate that the barrel face rides on. They are rotation specific. CW or CCW. It will work at very low rpm but at operating rpm it will be noisy then self destruct.

Why do you want to run it backwards?
Is this something that can be flipped or do I need a different part. I had the charge pump opened up and that is as far as I got into it. I assume the lens plate is deeper in?
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  #19  
Old 09-16-2024, 12:18 AM
Ambush Ambush is online now
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You can change the rotation of the charge pump just by rotating the housing 180 degrees. You have to change the hydro pump lens plate for one of the opposite rotation. Rotation is always determined by looking at the input shaft. CW is right hand rotation, CCW is left hand.

You have to partially disassemble the hydro to change the lens plate, if you can find one.
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  #20  
Old 09-16-2024, 08:56 AM
KMCub KMCub is offline
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Got it, thank you for the info. To put this one to rest and be sure I am understanding you correctly, If I rotate the charge pump housing 180deg, and find a CW lens plate and run the input shaft CW the drive and axle will operate as it did originally? I am just trying to keep my drivetrain as simple as I can.
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