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  #11  
Old 08-07-2015, 01:51 PM
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Now paint that weight assembly silver and slap a Budweiser label on it
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  #12  
Old 08-07-2015, 09:27 PM
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Well I tried some of that magic paint. It's unbelievable how much better the weight works now.

Seriously though, I do not expect anyone to say that anything I make is "pretty". I doubt that the other "people that boast on here how they can make stuff work" do either.

I would guess that most of them show their ideas with the thought in mind that it might help someone else. If someone else can use that idea and make it look real nice, that's great. If someone on a budget or limited time can can use an idea and make something work for them even though it isn't pretty, that's even better. I hope they don't get discouraged by derogatory remarks from some that just want to see the "pretty" ones.

I guess using a pickup isn't the best comparison because it has a suspension. On a tractor, the air in the tires is the only suspension it has. If anyone by chance has two identical tractors and only one of them has loaded tires, try the bounce test. I guarantee the loaded tires will be a lot stiffer. It is basic physics, air will compress, liquid won't.

As stated below, the manufacturer says it's okay to load the tires. I prefer not to, just as some of you have preferences on other things.

I checked the tractor manual (I know, you're supposed to read the instructions first) and it says when using a front end loader to put 400 lbs in a weight box with the center of gravity 33" from the center of the rear axle and 20" from the ground.

If the center of gravity of the additional weight is positioned closer to the rear axle and higher from the ground, more weight must be added.


Using those recommendations and measurements, my weight is almost an exact fit. I don't think they would recommend doing it if they thought it was hard on everything. I'm sure some on this forum could have spent more time and made this actually look nice.

It also says to add 86 lbs of liquid ballast to each tire to be properly weighted. As I said before, I won't argue against ballasting tires, but I do have a reason for needing a light footprint, and it has nothing to do with my yard. I am a pretty big guy, so I''ll substitute my above average weight for the liquid ballast.
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  #13  
Old 08-07-2015, 10:52 PM
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I have two identical tractors. One with loaded tires AND wheel weights, one without either. The loaded tractor rides ten times better. BTDT on tractors for years.
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  #14  
Old 08-08-2015, 01:11 AM
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brake drums are good, but,,,,,

the red ones are 135# each, and the black ones are 50# each,,,



I have only ever used two of the black ones,,,,



They came back off, and I went back to the JD weights for ground clearance,,,



Maybe some day I will find a need for 690#,,,,,,
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  #15  
Old 08-08-2015, 02:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CADplans View Post
brake drums are good, but,,,,,

the red ones are 135# each, and the black ones are 50# each,,,



I have only ever used two of the black ones,,,,



They came back off, and I went back to the JD weights for ground clearance,,,



Maybe some day I will find a need for 690#,,,,,,
Those do make your tractor look nice and neat. Another tractor would help on your abundance of weight problem.

I'd like to see some pics of your field cultivator. Maybe there is already a thread on yours and/or other peoples tillage tools. I built a 5 shank for my Case 446. I need to add a couple more shanks for this tractor.
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  #16  
Old 08-08-2015, 04:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freedhardwoods View Post
Those do make your tractor look nice and neat. Another tractor would help on your abundance of weight problem.

I'd like to see some pics of your field cultivator. Maybe there is already a thread on yours and/or other peoples tillage tools. I built a 5 shank for my Case 446. I need to add a couple more shanks for this tractor.


I added weights to the front of the tractor because of the field cultivator,,,

(Trying to keep O.T.)



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  #17  
Old 08-08-2015, 08:00 PM
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What brand is that?
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  #18  
Old 08-08-2015, 08:24 PM
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What brand is that?
That is a Brinly,,, but, I got its twin as a Honda,,,



Why,,, do you need one??

The Honda has never been in the dirt,,,

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  #19  
Old 08-08-2015, 08:58 PM
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I'm not looking to get one. I just like looking. I built my own. Like everything else, it's not pretty, but it works great.

It wasn't completely finished in these pics. The shanks are spaced 9" apart and put 9" wide sweeps on it. I found out one gauge wheel in the middle makes it wobble really bad. I put one on each side and it works perfect. If you take off the middle shank, it' a great row cultivator.

I'm going to add another shank or two on each side (maybe wings?) for my bigger tractor.
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  #20  
Old 08-08-2015, 10:13 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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I'm going to add another shank or two on each side (maybe wings?) for my bigger tractor.
I don't think your cub will pull any more than your Case will.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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