784 Hydraulic Expansion - Page 2

riesedesperado6170 · #11 12-15-2011, 06:31 PM

I use 3/8" hydaulic .035 wall it hard to bend but pressure would be an issue and you can get stainless and only have to do it once flare for Jic is 37 degs and brake line is 45 deg you can get flare tool i have and works good is a ridgid number 377 and get a good bender i have imperals 1 for 3/8 and one for 1/4" there not cheap but it makes it easy . bender tube and fittings you can get hydraulic place. i just put a aftermaket control in my cub so i have float on the control and have to make new lines it was a pain in the but it was worth it in the end it works great. if you have any question pm me i'll try to keep you from making the mistakes i made.

maddog784 · #12 12-15-2011, 10:14 PM

Guys,

Thanks for the response - I was thinking that brake line was the ticket, but didn't know if anyone had made any mistakes for me to learn from. I have determined that it's hard to find a 37 degree flaring tool. I'm sure I could find one online. Any thoughts on where I might locate a 37 degree flaring tool? I was wondering if AutoZone or Advance may have it for loan.

I am waiting on a couple more fittings and once I find that flaring tool, I will be installing this thing! I will not initially plumb the 3rd valve in, as I have a trip back to home (MO) and won't be around the homestead for Christmas. After Christmas, I plan to get the 3rd line plumbed in. Looking at hoses and such from xtrememotorworks.com - it seems they are a lot cheaper than the local auto parts store, even with shipping. I have bought a couple of things for my sleeve hitch from the guys at xmw and have been extremely satisfied.

Sorry for the slow progress, but always looking forward to suggestions.

Nate

Matt G. · #13 12-15-2011, 10:23 PM

Aircraft use 37-degree flares on hard lines. Here's one option...not cheap, unfortunately.

ol'George · #14 12-15-2011, 11:50 PM

You will find a 45* Flair will work just fine on 37* fittings for what we do, and are easily avail.
Never had one leak in 50+ years, do use 37* hyd fittings.
They are a little pricy but work very well.
Parker is just one name brand.

riesedesperado6170 · #15 12-16-2011, 11:39 AM

there not that hard to find you can get them at home depot atleast they can order, summit racing has them if you use 45 deg it may leak i know i try when i did mine but it was stainless bing a harder line may have been a factor and brake line may split under pressure it only rated of couple hunder pounds. I am not sure what kind of pressure the hydro pump put out that why i when with higher pressure hydraulic steel line

R Bedell · #16 12-16-2011, 12:37 PM

The Maximum working pressure on a Cub Cadet hydro system would be around 600# psig.

Being a HVAC/R Tech, and working with various refrigerants & pressures, I use 45° flares all day long with no problem with the above pressures. And I use them with AC/R copper tubing.

It is just that the Hydraulic Industry uses the JIC fittings. I suppose if you are generating thousands of pounds of pressure, they are better.

maddog784 · #17 12-16-2011, 02:38 PM

I am not anticipating any problems with high hyrdaulic pressure, but would like to change as little as possible. The only reason I use a 37 degree flare is because it would be 2 less fitting I would have to buy. If I have to buy an expensive tool, it may be cheaper to go with a 45 degree flare and buy a couple fittings.

Thanks once again,

Nate

RedToyMan · #18 12-16-2011, 11:52 PM

I got my 37 degree flare from Summit Racing. Item SUM-900311.

Sam Mac · #19 12-17-2011, 09:15 AM

I’m in the middle of a dump tractor project using a JD 317 that I got as a roller. It’s part Cub as it now has the M12 out of my 1210 and a 1260 drive shaft. Anyway I got my fittings at http://aeroquip.cc/index.aspx and used hose made up at NAPA to run from the pump to the valve and also to my hydraulic cylinders.

maddog784 · #20 12-17-2011, 10:41 PM

In response to all of the hydraulic talk, I would like to throw in that I got all of my fittings from www.discounthydraulichose.com. Their prices were pretty fair I thought and the shipping was fast, except for a couple items that were back-ordered. They do have a $20 minimum on orders.

Now on to the good stuff. I have been piddling on this little project for the last couple of days and have managed to do the following:

1. Take the original valve body out of the tractor. This was more of a pain than I thought it would be, but it came out pretty clean.

2. Get the new valve body in place and mocked up. I discovered that I need to make a new mounting plate that mounts the valve body to the steering column. The new valve body is wider and will require another 1" to 1 1/2". The new valve body also sits closer to the steering column and will need to be spaced out to make the existing output hose and all of the linkage hook up correctly.

3. Took the original 3/8 steel line that feeds the valve bank off. I will use this for most of my curves in my new piece of line.

4. Following a trip to the local hardware store, I modeled up my new levers. Being a die-hard original type guy, I couldn't bring myself to destroy any OEM parts. Call me crazy, but they only made a limited number. I also designed my own because of all the welding on the OEM parts - they would be most likely destroyed after I modded them. This also leaves the door open for me to take this tractor back to factory condition, as I haven't modified any parts. The new levers had to expand on the old ones in that I needed 3 seperate controls, thus I needed a tube in a tube in a tube. I couldn't figure out a neat way to mod the existing ones, so I made new. Note that in the pictures, I have not installed the ears that actually move the valves, the parts were too hot to play with.

I have attached a couple pictures of my homemade handles compared to the OEM handles, of the valve bank mocked up in the tractor, of the detail on how the valves will mount up, and of the glory that is the 3 handles sticking out of the dash.

Till next time,

Nate