need help w/ rockshaft + hydraulics - Page 2

jbollis · #11 09-05-2010, 08:24 PM

Looks good. I would call Patton, and see if he has a battery box and tunnel cover from a super. Then you wont have to weld on the frame and it would like factory. The tunnel cover will be to long , but I think if you cut the extra from the front it would fit awesome. It would also fill the gap in on the fender pan from raising it up.

If you need a rockshaft let me know.

cub149 · #12 09-05-2010, 09:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ACecil

Nice work, Chip!

Thanks, I appreciate that.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt G.

You can hook the 149 valve to the 82 series cylinder. You may need custom-length hoses.

That helps a lot, I can handle the hoses.

Quote:

Originally Posted by jbollis

Looks good. I would call Patton, and see if he has a battery box and tunnel cover from a super. Then you wont have to weld on the frame and it would like factory. The tunnel cover will be to long , but I think if you cut the extra from the front it would fit awesome. It would also fill the gap in on the fender pan from raising it up.

That sounds like a good plan. I will have to get the dimensions to make sure but it would be easier than welding and then getting a good finished surface to paint. All I would have to do is raise the tower. Man, I sold that 982 to soon. I could have pulled parts off it to test fit it all. Oh well.

Methos · #13 09-05-2010, 11:28 PM

Looking real good Chip! I'm having rear tire envy! Those look awesome!

farmall fred · #14 09-07-2010, 09:23 AM

Hi all. New member here. When I seen the pics of cub 149's Cyclops conversion I had to post a comment. It reminds me of the 109 I had about 25 years ago. I modified the frame to look like a 782 and installed a KT17 series 1 in it. The engine was built from 2 that I bought from a local JD dealer that had blown up. I added a hyd lift using a small add on hyd pump and a lift cylinder and valve from a scrapped CC. Used it to mow grass and blow snow and till the garden for 5 years. It was an animal. I had to trade it in on a 1862 because the wife would not drive it as it did not have power steering. Great job on the conversion. looking forward to the finished job. I might have to build another one as I have a spare KT17 on the shelf.
Farmallfred

cub149 · #15 09-15-2010, 10:31 PM

I hope to get some time on this Fri and Sat. I have been staring, walking around, shifting, measuring, etc... trying to figure out just how I will make some things work. In the process I keep looking at the aluminum rear. It needs an axle seal as it is leaking. I would like to have a cast iron rear in it. I know this has been discused on here but I would like to have a simple explanation on what I need to do. Lets start with some basic questions. I've never done rearends so this will be rearend 101 -100.5

1) Will a CI rear from a 149, 1450, etc... work without changing the gears in the case?
2) Since I have the 26x12 tires on, should I be looking for super rear gears or will the GT gears do the job?
3) I am assuming the super is geared differently for the larger tires?

Matt G. · #16 09-15-2010, 11:08 PM

The super rear is geared differently so that the tractor's ground speed is similar to that of the GTs, so you'll gain speed and lose some torque, but I don't think I'd worry about that. The CI rear will work; HOWEVER...

I think I'd stick with the aluminum rear on account of the stronger axles. I think you may be liable to twist off the coarse-spline axles in the iron rear by putting 18 hp through it with 26-12-12 tires. If you aren't going to do any ground-engaging work with it, there's probably nothing to worry about, but if you are, I'd just leave it be.

cub149 · #17 09-15-2010, 11:36 PM

I will be doing all ground engaging work with this one. Your advice is noted but...
I have seen discusions on putting the inards from the aluminum into the CI, would this work with what I have? I kinda want to keep it as original to a 149/189 as possible. Of course, once I get a 3pt hooked up you wouldn't be able to see the CI anyway but still...
What are your thoughts on this?

Matt G. · #18 09-16-2010, 10:14 AM

You can easily do that with the older aluminum rears that were used through 1989. They have 1" diameter axles just like the CI rears. The axles in your cyclops rear are ~1 3/16", so you'd need to have the axle tubes bored for larger bearings and seals.

cub149 · #19 09-16-2010, 05:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt G.

You can easily do that with the older aluminum rears that were used through 1989. They have 1" diameter axles just like the CI rears. The axles in your cyclops rear are ~1 3/16", so you'd need to have the axle tubes bored for larger bearings and seals.

Thanks Matt, duly noted and food for thought.

cub149 · #20 09-25-2010, 01:33 PM

OK, I got my lift cylinder and rockshaft and am in the process of installing it. Looking at the parts diagram I am missing a part. Part #5. I am assuming this plate has the pin attached to it that goes through the lift cylinder and pin #4 is what the rockshaft rests against in the float position. Is this correct? Can I not just use two seperate pins and leave out the plate? I can make one if I have to but just don't see the need.

http://cubcadetparts.arinet.com/Scri...&ilIF=P&ilRE=8