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#11
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Yes, that's correct, but let me say it differently..... (I think we are on the same page.)
Set the "S" in the window, then set the points closed. Hook up the meter, adjust the points until the beeping just stops. Lock them in place. It should hardly look like they are open, if you can see they are at all. But the meter should not beep. Roll the motor by hand with the meter hooked up. The meter will beep constantly. Just as the beep stops, check to see that the "S" is in the hole. It should be dead center in the hole. Then, they are correct. |
#12
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Ok Thanks Ill try that and see what happens. Go back to work tomorrow so it will be a day or two before I get a chance to test it. I think the whole running issue started from dirty fuel and no fuel filter and the PO adjusted the points instead of cleaning the carb and things went down hill from there.
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Don Smith https://www.facebook.com/SouthernKentuckyCubCadetClub IH 982D aka "The Big Red Smoker" BRS w/3pt hitch CC 1572 aka "The Big Yellow Smoker" BYS w/3pt hitch-PTO Brinly Cat 0 3pt plow-Brinly sleeve hitch plow Custom Hydraulic lift disc-Haban Blade-Brinly Cultivators Cub Cadet lawn trailer and lawn sweeper |
#13
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Good luck! I think I'd still adjust the valves.
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#14
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Ill read my repair manual and tackle that also. Any hints you have send my way.
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Don Smith https://www.facebook.com/SouthernKentuckyCubCadetClub IH 982D aka "The Big Red Smoker" BRS w/3pt hitch CC 1572 aka "The Big Yellow Smoker" BYS w/3pt hitch-PTO Brinly Cat 0 3pt plow-Brinly sleeve hitch plow Custom Hydraulic lift disc-Haban Blade-Brinly Cultivators Cub Cadet lawn trailer and lawn sweeper |
#15
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always roll in direction of engine rotation. if the cam end play is wide it will alter your timing location. Helical cut gears will do that
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#16
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dvogtvpe,
For sure going in the right rotation. So far J-Mech using your suggestion I am getting consistent results with the points setting and the location of the "S" timing mark. Also I did check the valves they are not sticking and the gap is correct. I still have to double check all of the wiring. Ill do a test run this weekend once Im off work. Don
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Don Smith https://www.facebook.com/SouthernKentuckyCubCadetClub IH 982D aka "The Big Red Smoker" BRS w/3pt hitch CC 1572 aka "The Big Yellow Smoker" BYS w/3pt hitch-PTO Brinly Cat 0 3pt plow-Brinly sleeve hitch plow Custom Hydraulic lift disc-Haban Blade-Brinly Cultivators Cub Cadet lawn trailer and lawn sweeper |
#17
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J-Mech just wanted to let you know I timed it using you suggestion and replaced the condenser and wire and it fired right up. Runs pretty good. Thanks!
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Don Smith https://www.facebook.com/SouthernKentuckyCubCadetClub IH 982D aka "The Big Red Smoker" BRS w/3pt hitch CC 1572 aka "The Big Yellow Smoker" BYS w/3pt hitch-PTO Brinly Cat 0 3pt plow-Brinly sleeve hitch plow Custom Hydraulic lift disc-Haban Blade-Brinly Cultivators Cub Cadet lawn trailer and lawn sweeper |
#18
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#19
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I need to replace the points on my 800 next spring. Last time, engine seemed to be misfiring a LOT.
With my big magnifying glass, stationary contact appeared to be cracked. What is the best way to roll engine by hand? Remove spark plug to eliminate compression? Looking at engine from driver seat, it turns clockwise, right? Been a while since I did major work on an older Kohler engine. Thanks to all |
#20
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you have the correct rotation--clockwise sitting in the driver's seat, looking at the flywheel. Or, counterclockwise standing in front of the tractor, looking at the PTO. It's easier to turn it over with the plug removed. I usually just grab the PTO basket or starter belt and turn it by hand.
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