782D fun

[darkminion_17]

Originally Posted by Oak

Update...

I got the injector pump back together, installed and bled. This was pretty simple, don't be intimidated.

Replaced the glow plugs with NGK 2031 (Y-103V).

Installed new China gear reduction starter.

Brazed the leaking radiator.

Engine starts and runs great.

After 2-3 minutes of running, it is in the overheating range on the gauge.

When I pulled this into the shop I drained what little antifreeze was in it. I then pulled the radiator off for repair, pulled the hoses and flushed both of those and the block with a hose. I got a lot of nasty rust out of the block. Look how this lower hose was clogged with rust and crap.
Attachment 112055
The bypass nipple on the water pump was clogged also. Then I found the thermostat was missing. Now I'm pretty sure the PO had an overheating issue too.

Here is where I'm at now. Even with no thermostat in, it still over heats. It's almost like I'm not getting enough flow through the engine. The water on top of the radiator was only around 105 but the gauge was almost to the far right.

I ordered a new "el-cheapo" water pump for some testing to see if my existing impeller has corrosion causing poor flow.(I doubt that is the issue)
https://www.amazon.com/AULINK-15534-...ps%2C97&sr=8-7

I'm also thinking about adding some of this to the cooling system to see if it will help.
https://www.evapo-rust.com/crc-thermocure/

Do any of y'all have any suggestions? TIA

The lower radiator hose has a some piping, did you remove all of those? You might have to fill the block with that stuff undiluted and let it sit for a few hours, then flush it out without running the engine.

[Oak]

Yes, when I had the engine out I had all of that removed, flushed and blown out with air. When I fill the radiator I had water coming out of the bypass pipe so water is filling the block.

[Ambush]

Might be plugged with a radiator stop leak component of some kind, maybe to the extreme. PO might have tried to “fix” the rad leak a few times that way.

[Oak]

But radiator is only 105 at the top and cool at the bottom. If the radiator was clogged up I would think it would be hot.

[Ambush]

The engine block jackets could be plugged with the same gunk and it can form globs with the scale. Definitely sounds like a restricted block. Flushing with a garden hose both ways with the rad out of the system is the best bet. The more volume and pressure the better. A thin spring snake can knock a lot loose to. You might even try a two foot piece of old throttle or choke cable in a drill.

[darkminion_17]

You do not say you had the rady hot tanked, didja?

[Oak]

That's what I'm thinking Ambush.

Lew, I did not have the rad tanked. I did flush the rad both ways with a hose when I had it out.

I need to check the sensor next. Looks like the T-stat opens at 180*. I used my Fluke IR gun on the water jacket and got nowhere near 180* but I'm sure the iron takes a little longer to heat up.

I put this setup on my 1772 and I like it better because it gives a temp readout. It puts the sensor between the pump and the thermostat. I left the original one in under the hood and they read about the same.
DSCN1068.jpg DSCN1102.jpg

All good info guys.....Keep sending it and I'll let ya know if we get this thing fixed.

[Oak]

The water pump should be here today so I gotta pull the engine out to replace that. I'm thinking while it's out I may have to pull the head and flush all the water side ports with compressed air and water. Thoughts anyone?

[Ambush]

Pulling the head is probably the wise thing to do considering all the junk you found in the rest of the system. Reason says the block will be the same. Not sure how much money or a PIA it is to get the rad tanked, but now would be a good time for that too.

But most of us would likely just change the pump based on wishful thinking. Then be really irritated we didn't clean the block too when we knew we should have.

[1711Cub]

Too bad there isn't an effective chemical means of safely cleaning that, instead of tearing it down. I have used muriatic acid in the past to rid cooling system deposits, but it stinks, and isn't exactly safe.