Power steering question

[ol'George]

Originally Posted by inspectorudy

I see that there is always a way to do anything just from your responses. Chip, how do you make a 90 degree bend like the ones on top of the tranny with the fitting already on the line? Or did you do the bend first and then put the fitting on the line and then flared it? I was looking at the PS kit for the 82 series that was offered by IH as a DIY conversion kit. They used a combination of unions, 90 D elbows and hoses to do most of the conversion. I was thinking of keeping the two main lines from the tranny and using unions and short hoses for the final connection. Any comments on this method? In the conversion kit they used 90 d elbows on the PS valve and then hoses or short lines with another 90 d on the end. I found a place near me that makes hoses and they have all of the needed fittings for hoses but none for lines. Chip, did you use 3/8 brake line to make your lines? Is there any special way to bend or re-form the OEM lines? They seem so damn hard that I was afraid I would break them. Would heat help? I'm on a search and decide mission today to see if I can find some local answers. Once again thank you for your ideas. BTW, George, how did you extend the fron axles?

I ground the weld away and removed the original stub axle off the 'C" shaped pivot.
Having a piece or 2-1/2" dia. bar stock on hand, I turned it down on one end to fit the wheel, (1" dia)
On the other end I turned it down to 1" also, but only 1/4" long, as a locating stub to go into the "C" shaped pivot and welded it to duplicate as was stock.
That puts the wheel 2" farther away than original, and strength is added so as not to bend it because of the larger diameter as is shown in the pix.
Both wheels were done that way.
I really like the stability of the wider stance, the difference is like day and night on my side hills.

[inspectorudy]

George you either have a witch or a lathe at home because you turned things into other things! I'm assuming it is a lathe although my wife can turn me into bad things with just her voice. I too have a lot of steep hills and that may be an option if I meet a friendly machinist. I was thinking of cutting off a little of the ram stroke rod and threading it a little more towards the cylinder. That would be something that A I can do at home. Would there be a problem with anything if I did that? Also, on my 1862 front axle the steering arm is not at 90 degrees to the wheel when straight. It is about twenty degrees toward the front when the wheel is going straight ahead. In the instructions for the PS kit for the 82 series it says to make sure that the arm is in line with the axle when the wheel is forward. I also found a supplier today here in Atlanta. I went to Garinger's first and the guy sent me to American Hose where they had EVERYTHING I will ever need plus hard lines and all of the fittings needed to finish the job. They are about half the price of Garinger's.

[ol'George]

Originally Posted by inspectorudy

George you either have a witch or a lathe at home because you turned things into other things! I'm assuming it is a lathe although my wife can turn me into bad things with just her voice. I too have a lot of steep hills and that may be an option if I meet a friendly machinist. I was thinking of cutting off a little of the ram stroke rod and threading it a little more towards the cylinder. That would be something that A I can do at home. Would there be a problem with anything if I did that? Also, on my 1862 front axle the steering arm is not at 90 degrees to the wheel when straight. It is about twenty degrees toward the front when the wheel is going straight ahead. In the instructions for the PS kit for the 82 series it says to make sure that the arm is in line with the axle when the wheel is forward. I also found a supplier today here in Atlanta. I went to Garinger's first and the guy sent me to American Hose where they had EVERYTHING I will ever need plus hard lines and all of the fittings needed to finish the job. They are about half the price of Garinger's.

Over the years I have picked up a few machines for my machine shop.
Most of it is old like me, and run by flat belt.
If a fellow is to have fun ya need equipment to keep the vintage things running because you just can’t buy parts, you have to make them.
‘Prolly the pix will explain more that words here on my modified bracket.
I'm thinking the cub cyl. is smaller in diameter and the rod is longer than the Deere, that would clear the tire as the rod, not the Cyl. would be alongside the tire.
And that would put it about right for a 82 series steering arm. ya don't want to shorten the cyl rod till you check out the stroke.
You can see where I put the rod mounting hole in relation to the original hole, in the widened bracket.
Don’t forget to check clearance when the whole axle pivots as it would encounter a bump.
My Heim joint comes real close to the mule drive when it comes up on the left side.
It takes a bit to get it all correct, but that is 1/2 of the fun!
Now as far as a Witch, I used to know a practicing one that on a full moon she—well that is another story for another day

[inspectorudy]

As I mentioned above I found a supply house for all of the lines, hoses and Jic fittings that I will need but then when I go home I ran into another problem. I bought a PS valve bracket from Extreme Motorworks and it doesn't fit my tractor. I can make it work but the bottom of the valve hangs down too low. I cannot find how far below the frame rail the valve should be and was wondering if any of you could take a measurement and let me know. I'm afraid if I go with the bracket the way it is now it will interfere with the mule or mower hanger. Once I get the measurement I can cut the bracket I have so that it will hold the valve at the proper height and then I can cut my lines and hoses to fit that height. Here is a picture of the bracket I have now. I actually need the "Y" shaped type that only fits over two of the studs. I'll be glad to trade with anyone who needs this brand new one for your old rusty one! Here is the one I need that is NLA. I can make one if I knew the demensions. If anyone has one that you can get to I would appreciate the measurements of it.

[wally67]

Hi I am going to be doing the same swap your doing right now as soon as get some other projects finished. I have all of the parts to do it it exept for the lines. I think the P/S valve braket you have now is only for supers if you look at the parts break down on cubs website for the 1862 and 1864 it shows two brakets the Y bracket like you mentioned and there is also a bracket that runs across the frame rails with a U bolt that supports the tube of the steering valve. these are pretty simple brakets it looks like they would be easy to make. I can take some pictures and mesurements of the ones I have if you would like. Let me know wally

[inspectorudy]

I would appreciate the help and when I get through with the lines and fittings I will publish my findings so that maybe it will help you and anyone else that wants to do this conversion.

[Matt G.]

I'm not sure why the bracket from a super wouldn't work, as that area of the frame is the same on a super and a GT. There is no additional depth on a super frame, and the extra length is at the back.

[inspectorudy]

Matt, I have tried every angle and it will fit one way but it is upside down from the depicted way in any of the pictures of other tractors and it makes the PS valve hang down too far below the frame rails. If you notice that the notched corner of the bracket should face to the front right to match up with the cut off stud on the PS valve. Well if I try that, there is no way to get it to fit. The cross brace in the frame gets in the way and if I raise it up enough to clear the brace then the slope at the top of the side rail hits the top edge of the bracket where the holes are. I guess that's why they went to a simpler bracket on some models or to save money. There are two holes in my frame rail that match up perfectly with the bracket but the lower cross brace that has the brake safety switch mounted on it is in the way. I'm thinking about using the two holes that held the OEM column in place and modifying the bracket to fit them. Or if Wally sends me the measurements on the "Y" bracket I can cut the bracket I have to match it. The main problem I have with fabricating a bracket is that I do not know how low to let the valve hang down. It looks to me that IH used the same frame drill jigs on the frame rails even though some of the holes would not work on every model. Thanks for jumping in and keep it up.
Rudy

[Matt G.]

Now that I think about it a bit more, I think the crossmember in a super frame is different and in a slightly different location. It's been awhile since I've had my 1872 apart so I can't remember. I think bottom of the valve is about 1/2" to 3/4" above the bottom of the frame, so the hard lines stick out just below the bottom of the frame.

[jbollis]

MATT
The cross member is in a different spot, and is a different shape. This is a problem that I ran into mocking up my project with non-power steering. I will have to cut the cross member out from a regular 82 and switch them out on the super frame.