3205 rear issue

[Alvy]

Todd that looks like an alignment issue to me. Isn’t this the infamous 3000 series locking rear that has the bolts that would work loose that we have all read about? Maybe it had a past failure of that happening which caused the wear/damage and was previously repaired? If the bolts in question are the ones that hold the big straight cut gear to the carrier and got loose in the past that would cause that to happen.......once that wear/damage occurs on a ring/pinion it only gets worse because the machined surface is gone

[Sam Mac]

Originally Posted by Terry C

I don’t expect it to be as nice as my 2182s. But I need something that somebody else can use. I don’t trust anybody on the 21s. I rebuilt and rewired them completely, and there is no safety switches anywhere. Nor do I keep the belt guards on the deck, just a place to collect clippings.
So user friendliness is what I’m after. I don’t want to worry about somebody damaging the 21s, they kinda are my babies.

Terry
Great minds think alike. I'm also old school per safety everything. Like you I don't let anyone run my stuff.

[TNTs CC]

Originally Posted by Terry C

I don’t expect it to be as nice as my 2182s. But I need something that somebody else can use. I don’t trust anybody on the 21s. I rebuilt and rewired them completely, and there is no safety switches anywhere. Nor do I keep the belt guards on the deck, just a place to collect clippings.
So user friendliness is what I’m after. I don’t want to worry about somebody damaging the 21s, they kinda are my babies.

The only thing I might recommend is to remove the 3200's diff lock pedal. Someone who doesn't understand the correct way to operate the diff lock can cause some serious damage.

If you have anywhere that might need the diff lock to be used just fill the rear tires, I haven't needed to use it since I did.

I'd love to add a 2182 to my fleet, they are sweet.

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by TNTs CC

The only thing I might recommend is to remove the 3200's diff lock pedal. Someone who doesn't understand the correct way to operate the diff lock can cause some serious damage.

If you have anywhere that might need the diff lock to be used just fill the rear tires, I haven't needed to use it since I did.

I'd love to add a 2182 to my fleet, they are sweet.

Todd has been through several of the 3000 series. He knows all about the diff lock, how it works, when to use it and how to fix it. Look through his threads.

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by Alvy

Todd that looks like an alignment issue to me. Isn’t this the infamous 3000 series locking rear that has the bolts that would work loose that we have all read about? Maybe it had a past failure of that happening which caused the wear/damage and was previously repaired? If the bolts in question are the ones that hold the big straight cut gear to the carrier and got loose in the past that would cause that to happen.......once that wear/damage occurs on a ring/pinion it only gets worse because the machined surface is gone

That's my assumption on what happened as well.

[TNTs CC]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

Todd has been through several of the 3000 series. He knows all about the diff lock, how it works, when to use it and how to fix it. Look through his threads.

I know Todd has. Terry C kinda piggybacked/derailed a question in this thread and I quoted him in my response since it was directed towards him. The 3200 he is thinking of buying will be used by other not him, that's why I suggested what I did.


I had already responded that a loose gear probably was the cause of what Todd found. By Todd I'm assuming you mean Oak. I didn't recall his first name but I have read most of his 3000 series posts here.

[Oak]

This tractor had very few hours on it when I purchased it so I don't think it had a rear issue before.....I think.


I'm thinking I may have an alignment issue also.

The rear cover holds the bearing blocks in place but I wonder if I can somehow assemble it without the rear cover and use something like Prussian blue to test the fit?

Or

I wonder if I'm have a gerotor issue and that is where a lot of the metal is coming from?

Lots of rain and hot weather...grass is growing like crazy, this is my main mower.

[TNTs CC]

A bent or improperly machined when new rear axle housing could cause wear like that also.

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by Oak

I'm thinking I may have an alignment issue also.

The rear cover holds the bearing blocks in place but I wonder if I can somehow assemble it without the rear cover and use something like Prussian blue to test the fit?

All you need is two bars down each side to hold the bearings in. Just get a piece of strap and drill some holes.

Prussian blue is too hard to see on a gear. I don't like it. Used it before in a pinch, but I can't see it very good. Get some gear marking compound. Summit has it pretty cheap.

Originally Posted by Oak

I wonder if I'm have a gerotor issue and that is where a lot of the metal is coming from?

Possible.... But if you do and that much metal is in the rear, I would think the hydro would just about be shot too.


I think you just have a bad gear, but that's my opinion. Unless a bearing is out, I don't see it being an alignment issue. I've seen bad housings before. As in they got machined wrong. Odd ball stuff you don't see very often at all. Usually that sort of thing gets caught by quality control because it starting affecting more than just one random housing. It does happen though. Check the contact. That will be the tell. Let us know what you find.

[mickb72]

Hi Oak, if you don't have Prussian Blue use woman's lipstick. Try any color. I used a brownish gold. Works real good. Mike