782 cab!!!

[poellot]

Because my first goal was making a good working machine. Not keeping it original. I added power steering. I am 6'2" so i raised the steering wheel a little from factory. I almost went to much. I didnt have the cab yet when i did it. The window just barely clears when hinged back.
I used a stainless exhaust pipe for the column.
I wanted an oil pressure gauge. I found one with the ih logo that was nos. I also found an ampmeter with the numbers and ih logo. Also nos. Added a good quality hour meter.
100 percent new wiring. I used closslinked wire. All white. And self laminating labels at the end of every wire so to make for easy fixing in 30 years. I added extra lights under the floorboards. Added wires for lights at the rear.
I also added a 4 pin round trailer plug. 1 is ground. 2 is lights. 3 is power. 4 is voltage regulated ground through a speed controller. The knob is in the position where a 982 had the rear pto switch. So i can run an electric spreader.
The fuel shutoff is now dash mounted.
Cigarette lighter and phone charger on the little cover infront of the seat.
I plan to add lights on the cab.
When its hot out ill be mowing at after the sun goes down. The led lights i used are already bright and dont take to much power.

[poellot]

This is not an ih built. It is a ccc aluminum rear machine. But i like the looks of the ih logo in the grill so i just added it on. I couldn't see a reason not to. I used brass screws to hold the headlights.
I think thats about all. Lol. Yes it was a lot. But worth it. I have already restored the 44a deck. I also have a 44c. Snow plow and haban thrower that will get restoration in the next few years before the rust takes them.

[poellot]

Oh one last thing. I added a dpdt button on the brake so i could wire the safety like the newer machines so it will no longer drive by itself. I must lock the brake to get off the seat.
Brake must be down to crank.
So you need the normal open contacts for that. Then close with the brake pressed to allow the starter to crank.

For the shutdown, because it has the m18, it had the ignition switch changed for the magneto shutdown. So i used a relay.
Wire the relay contacts, common to ground. Normally open to the kill wire.
Then the seat switch gets a Normally closed switch. Ground one side. The other side goes to the second set on the dpdt brake switch.
With the wire from the seat going to the brake you need the Normally closed contacts. Take that to the relay coil. The other relay coil gets 12v keyed from the fuse.
This makes you have the brake or seat or both pressed to run. If you do not lock the brake and get off. It completes ground from the seat switch to the brake switch to the relay, that kills the engine using low current switches without needing to worry about the magneto killing the contacts so fast.
If you used high current switches then you would probably be fine without a relay. But i only found low current options for one that was dpdt and mounted with no physical modification.

My knee gets very close to the hydro lever getting on and off. So i really wanted this to prevent me from a big mishap
I did not use the original reverse switch that shuts off the pto. I look behind me before backing up.

[Getter-Done]

Originally Posted by poellot

Any recommendations for where to get the decals made? I have a place somewhat locally that might be able to. But it would be easier to just email the pics and measurements of my old decals and have them shipped.

Some Awning and Sign places make decals also.

She is working on a project for me now.

Here is a link.

Link:https://www.awningsplusllc.com/resid...9893-g2013169-



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