1872 Rebuild & Repower - Page 2

farmall fred · #11 04-04-2016, 10:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sam Mac

Tom

If you go that route you will need to swap both the reduction gear and the pump output shaft. The shaft for the super is different between the GT pumps and the SGT pumps.

Sam, I was doing some research last night on beefing up a Cub Cadet rear and came across this site. Lots of great tips on parts swapping. Looks like the way to go is cast iron case, two piece carrier with ring and pinion from cast rear, 30 mm axles and bore axle tubes to accept larger axles and seals. I would then swap my SGT pump output shaft and reduction gear and use the hydro pump from the 1864 Cyclops. I have all the parts to do the swap, SGT rear, 1864 Cyclops rear with good hydro pump and large axles and carrier and a 782 cast iron rear, just would have to buy the necessary gaskets,seals and bearings. Boring the axle tubes for the larger bearings will not be an issue for me as I have both a lathe and vertical mill. Since my goal is to just get the frame painted and the motor running before I start spring farming I will do the rear end swap later this summer.
Later.
Tom

http://www.************************.com/transaxl.htm

Sam Mac · #12 04-04-2016, 12:18 PM

Tom

The link doesn't work. My guess is you tried to post something from Brian Millers site. Post's from Brian Millers site are not allowed on OCC.

You seem to be convinced that the cast iron rear is the hot setup so be my guest. Me I'm all good with the Aluminum rears with the big tubes, bearings and axles. Stick a set a SGT braces on it and be Happy. But again that's just me.

farmall fred · #13 04-04-2016, 05:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sam Mac

Tom

The link doesn't work. My guess is you tried to post something from Brian Millers site. Post's from Brian Millers site are not allowed on OCC.

Sam, I did not realize that links to Brian's site were not allowed. on OCC. Sorry. It just seemed that there was some good information there.

You seem to be convinced that the cast iron rear is the hot setup so be my guest. Me I'm all good with the Aluminum rears with the big tubes, bearings and axles. Stick a set a SGT braces on it and be Happy. But again that's just me.

On the cast iron rear issue I was only trying to add some weight and use parts that I already have here without having to spend extra money. It seemed to be a easy to add about 60 lbs to the rear. I guess the easiest way to go is put my SGT pump output shaft and reduction gear in my Cyclops rear and add a set of braces. If I do this I could sell the cast rear and recoup some of my cost. Thanks for your input and advice it is appreciated.
Tom

Sam Mac · #14 04-04-2016, 07:14 PM

Tom

It's been a long day. I'll put together a suggestion on how I would deal with what you have that will give you the best results. It will have to wait till tomorrow.

That said tell me what you intend to do with this tractor so that I can come up with the best recommendation.

farmall fred · #15 04-04-2016, 08:22 PM

Sam, the tractor will be mainly be used as a mower, but I will be installing my three point hitch from my other 1872. I have a 10 inch plow for it for the garden and will be building a 48 inch box scraper with adjustable ripper teeth to grade my very long driveway. I plan on a 3 valve hydraulic set up so I can control the three point separate from the belly lift. It will be fully restored and painted but I plan on working it. I figured with the 28 HP EFI Command motor that I should beef it up. The previous owner took the tunnel cover off of it and I was amazed how much the frame twists with out it bolted in place. No wonder the rear housing is broken. Thanks
Tom

jaynjeep · #16 04-04-2016, 11:36 PM

Those braces Sam suggested will take ALL the twist out of the frame.. I noticed my 1782 twisting a lot... all the bolts were in place and tight.. The SGT brace kit was super easy and made it feel like a different tractor!!

Just my two cents worth... The thought of a cast rear is nice but I really don't think it's worth the trouble... But at the end of the day it's your project so do as like...

Great project!! It will be a great worker no matter which way you go.!!

Sam Mac · #17 04-05-2016, 08:44 AM

Tom

Based on what you have for parts to work with, if it was my tractor I would use the rear that you have from the 1864. You will need the reduction gear out of the 1872 and you will also need the pump output shaft from the 1872.

Super reduction gearing 6.8 : 1
Reduction gear 68 Teeth
Pump Shaft 10 Teeth

GT reduction gearing 5.5 : 1
Reduction gear 66 Teeth
Pump Shaft 12 Teeth

So you'll be disassembling 2 pumps and 2 transmissions and making 1 out of the 2.

I'd also pull the axle tubes off the 1864 rear and drill oil return holes at the bottom.

I'd replace every seal and gasket in both the pump and trans.

A set of SGT braces.

I'd replace the drive shaft with one from a 2084 or 2284.

Not sure I'd go for as much engine as you're planning on doing but it would be cool.

Look for a muffler for a 2284 and the heat shields. Heat shields are hard to find. Try the sponsors for the drive shaft, muffler and heat shields.

When it's all done you would end up with basically a 2284 with a steel hood and no tilt steering.

Holler if you have any questions. I have a ton of info on these things.

farmall fred · #18 04-05-2016, 10:53 AM

That sounds like a good plan. I was kind of thinking along the same lines.
As far as the engine, I got it at a good price so I will use it. I think the EFI will be cool. I have the muffler for the Command EFI and need to use it because of the Q2 sensor in it. I built a heat shields for both of my other Command conversions that I done and it they look good almost like the Magnum shield so I will do the same for this one. I have a CV joint drive shaft in my other 1872 that I will swap into this tractor and use the one from this one in the snow blower 1872 because it has the easy start disconnect and it is new. I have the complete tower and power steering unit from the 1864 and have entertained thoughts of trying to adapt the tilt wheel to the 1872. I can cut up a spare 782 tower I have and see if I can make the tilt wheel work with it. Also been wondering how it would look with the Cyclops fenders and adjustable seat. Guess I could mock it up before I paint it. better stop thinking and just get busy.
Thanks for the tips.
Later

Tom

cyr2872 · #19 04-07-2016, 10:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by farmall fred

On the cast iron rear issue I was only trying to add some weight and use parts that I already have here without having to spend extra money. It seemed to be a easy to add about 60 lbs to the rear. I guess the easiest way to go is put my SGT pump output shaft and reduction gear in my Cyclops rear and add a set of braces. If I do this I could sell the cast rear and recoup some of my cost. Thanks for your input and advice it is appreciated.
Tom

When I did my cast rear, I picked up a cast rear from a 12xx or 14xx I believe. Swapped the internals/axles/hydro pump from the 1872 rear in to the cast one. No need to bore the axle tubes since the axle diameter is the same at the bearing surface. Pretty easy swap as long as you keep all the SGT internals together. Setting backlash, ect. was the hardest part.

cyr2872 · #20 04-07-2016, 11:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by farmall fred

As far as the engine, I got it at a good price so I will use it. I think the EFI will be cool. I have the muffler for the Command EFI and need to use it because of the Q2 sensor in it.

Good prices are the best prices. You'll love the EFI. I think the EFI setup I sent you mentioned it, but don't forget to wire in a MIL (malfunction indicator light) for trouble codes. My kit came with an LED which I install in an existing hole on the dash. Good luck!