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#11
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I had a Mag 20 do the same thing. I shot some Kroil on it and used some needle nose pliers to free it up. It worked great after that. I did that with just removing the valve covers. You probably should have done a leak down test first.
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This ain't no hobby....it's an addiction |
#12
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I know, live and learn right! I guess that's why hindsight is always 20/20.
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#13
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I rebuilt my M18 2 years ago. New rings, gaskets, and lapped valves. Reused my pistons. I used a cylinder hone to clean up the cylinder walls. Definitely worth the time and effort. Since you have it apart you have a great start. Since the rebuild it runs great lots of power no smoke no oil consumption.
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#14
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Cub, that's my exact plan too.
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#15
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I left the bottom end alone and did not split the case - end play seemed okay. I did replace the crank shaft end seals. Be careful getting the old ones out. I nicked the crank and had to use a speedy sleeve to repair it.
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#16
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Yep not splitting the case, and definitely replacing the front and rear seals. The flywheel side was definitely seeping, not neglecting those that's for sure!
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#17
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One other thing to look at are the pressurized oil lines leading the the remote oil filter base. Mine were a bit ratty looking and I think I had close to 1500 hours on the meter so I opted to replace mine. They were not cheap or easy to find. I know some have had new ones built at a hydraulic hose shop rather than track down OEM parts.
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#18
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Those "oil lines" handle less than 50 PSIG of pressure. I made some from Copper Tubing with NO problem(s).
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#19
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Great to know, and great replies guys, thanks.
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#20
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Are you implying that there is a use for copper tubing that does not require yeast and sugar? LOL
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