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  #11  
Old 08-27-2018, 09:48 AM
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cooperino cooperino is offline
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Originally Posted by olds45512 View Post
Back when I was a kid my dad always had the name of the shop hand painted on the door of the truck, anytime he traded the truck in he always used easy off to remove the lettering and it never hurt the paint. It has to be the original easy off, fume free won't touch the spray paint at all.
That makes sense. I doubt any kind of hardener was used in the hand painted work. The oven cleaner must be able to soften the non hardened paint but not to the point of damaging the clear or hardened paint beneath it. I might have to try the oven cleaner sometime. We get machines back in off lease after 6 months with spray painted unit numbers from the airlines. The paint we sent them out with is still fine but getting the spray paint off can be a pain in the butt.
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  #12  
Old 08-27-2018, 10:11 AM
Mudrig150 Mudrig150 is offline
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I've never actually semi professionally painted anything, just thrown a coat of paint over rust, but I at least know the basics. Rough up the paint, prime, 3 coats of paint, then sand smooth and clear coat. I'll do the fenders, frame, front rims, and the tunnel cover.
We do have a sand blaster, but the valve's busted off, and we have a compressor for a paint gun, but it's broke and the other compressor has a huge hole in the tank.
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  #13  
Old 08-27-2018, 10:13 AM
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Question: Why in god's name would I sand and paint over the almost perfect original paint? Yeah, I'll sand, prime, and repaint the frame and fenders, but not anything else.
Maybe I'll also hit the tunnel cover and front rims with some new paint.
I would like to see this almost perfect original paint ya got there.. Your the one who said you scratched it up.

Paint all that stuff you said and leave the old paint. I don't think you will be happy with the shine against dull dead paint look
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  #14  
Old 08-27-2018, 10:20 AM
Mudrig150 Mudrig150 is offline
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I would like to see this almost perfect original paint ya got there.. Your the one who said you scratched it up.

Paint all that stuff you said and leave the old paint. I don't think you will be happy with the shine against dull dead paint look
Oh, I guess I forgot to mention that I scratched up the paint on the fenders, where the green paint is.

Worst part is that the green paint crumbles basically into sand as it scrapes off, I don't know what kind of paint it is but it's a pain in neck to get off.

I guess before I repaint the fenders I'll also knock the bend out of the one fender (left side in pic).
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  #15  
Old 08-27-2018, 10:23 AM
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So your talking about not painting what? The hood and side covers?
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  #16  
Old 08-27-2018, 10:26 AM
Mudrig150 Mudrig150 is offline
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So your talking about not painting what? The hood and side covers?
The hood needs a touch up but it's fine overall, and the side panels are almost mint condition, save for some smallish rust spots.
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  #17  
Old 08-27-2018, 10:27 AM
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The hood needs a touch up but it's fine overall, and the side panels are almost mint condition, save for some small pinprick rust spots.
If you want it all to match, you need to paint everything. If you don't care about it not matching... well then go for it
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  #18  
Old 08-27-2018, 10:35 AM
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If you want it all to match, you need to paint everything. If you don't care about it not matching... well then go for it
I'm basically leaving the patina on everything matching, I'm not painting the dash, side panels, grille casting, nose, hood, or the dash support. In fact, I'm debating not even painting the tunnel cover, just replacing the warning sticker on it. I don't know, though. It's obvious the PO dragged his feet, on every corner the paint's rubbed off. I expected this, after all, the tractor has 950 hours (I don't know, but it seems way too nice to have 1200-1500 hours, plus PO had about 6 other obviously more used tractors, mine was in the back of his little storage area and had obviously been sitting for a while)
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  #19  
Old 08-27-2018, 10:37 AM
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I'm basically leaving almost everything matching, I'm not painting the dash, side panels, grille casting, nose, hood, or the dash support. In fact, I might not even paint the tunnel cover, just replace the warning sticker on it.
It's your baby.. Have fun with it
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  #20  
Old 08-27-2018, 10:47 AM
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I will agree with Coop on painting only parts of it. The new paint always stands out and looks worse than if it had just been left alone but it's your tractor so do whatever makes you happy.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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