Restoration is what the soul needs

[Eagle Keeper]

Jason, thanks for the nice Message. This is going to throw you, but cheap primer is good primer when it comes to spray bombs. Just grab the stuff at Walmart. As far as canned primer,,,,don't use the stuff from tractor supply houses. Get a good sandable primer from an automotive paint supplier. Don't use napa !! Their prices are way off base. Sand the part down as best as you can , it just has to be roughed up for the primer to adhere. Start of by dusting the primer. That means drop back about a foot and spray the primer until you can just see the color on the piece. Then back off for 5 minutes and hit it again. WHY ? Because if there is grease or oil on the part , a heavy coat of primer will fish eye. If you hit it thin with multiple coats the primer will seal the trouble areas because the coating dries too fast for a chemical reaction with the oil. After you have a good primer coat, then start to hit it with more coats. Each coat should never be glossy . If it is, you are spraying too thick. After the third coat, 5 minutes between coats, let it dry for half an hour and sand it with 180-220 grit. Just enough to break the surface of the paint. This will show you where the low spots are in regards to pitting or bad body work. Repair the bad body work and just hit the pitting areas a few more times. The Cub paint has a lot of solids in it, so it will fill in a lot of imperfections. You can spray bomb primer the whole tractor with 4 cans. To paint the tractor with a final color from Cub will take 2 qts of appropriate yellow and one qt of appropriate white. It's a learning process but the Cub paint is very forgiving.

[67hydro]

Mark
I do not want to spray bomb it!! This may sound silly but I have been saving to buy a cheap hvlp gun and another for primer,I know cheap aint great but after paint and primer cheap will have to do.If cheap breakes after 1 tractor Ill go get another cheap and before you know it I could of bought a good one!!It just works for me that way it will take a long time to save for a 300+ dollar gun!
I want to shoot it this way for future projects,get used to the gun.
So I really dont need a expensive primer?
Ok here is the deal,I am very particular , I will never show the tractor but I want a show quality paint job,Or as close as someone as inexperienced as I can get!! I am the type of person that will strip the whole peice if im not happy,but will take the same peice to the garden and plow like a son of a gon,and use it! It may seem crazy but I want to put that much effort into my paint job,and my wallet will only allow about 1/2 that.I dont want to spray bomb my tractor unless someone as experienced with paint as yourself can reassure me it will hold up to the sun,be tough as nails when im done,and look darn good!
Thanks and any comments,reccomendations,will be appreciated.
I was planning to buy the primer kit on ebay 131.00 including shipping its 1 gallon white DTM epoxy primer,2 qts primer hardner and 1 qt medium reducer,what do you think??
Dont hesitate to be honest,silly purchase,do i need this for a stinking tractor,or am I moveing in the right direction towards the paint job im looking for?
Jason

Listen-

Buy the small gravity feed cup gun at Lowes, they are EXCELLENT! and don't doubt me, cost is about $43. Keep it clean and it'll last you through three or four tractors. The plastic cup and lid seem to want to crack with age but they'll last you longer than a year, save your reciept and return it if it does crack. For the money this is a quality gun.

Now for about $55 you can buy 1 gallon of self-etching non-catylist primer, I like Marhyde. This will get you through a lot of metal, maybe two tractors if you took them down 100%.

Scott

[67hydro]

Thhanks Scott,
Have tou used the gravity feed for bth primer and color?And thanks for the reccomendations for the primer I will check it out.
Jason

[Eagle Keeper]

What Scott said. I like the inexpensive guns for shooting Enamel. Two guns...
The Campbell Hausfeld HVLP dh7800 gun and the Kobalt Small Gravity Feed Spray Gun. Both are below 80 bucks and work well. It's not so much the gun as the guy using it. Practice !! Don't buy a gallon of paint if you can help it. Get a Quart or two. Go to a local automotive paint store and tell them what you are doing. Tell them you want to use Acrylic Enamel with a hardener and fish eye retardant . I would imagine in your part of the country it's pretty low humidity. So use a medium reducer.

[Matt G.]

While we're on this subject....I've got to paint my loader when I install it on my 782. At the same time, I've got some wheels and odds and ends that I want to paint the same shade of white. I've got most of a quart of Valspar IH white that I have used to paint mower decks and a Brinly plow. I've also got most of a quart of primer for use with that paint. I'd like to use some better paint, but I need something reasonably-priced that will last. First off though, I've never used hardener with the paint I already have, and it takes probably 3 months to fully cure. I know hardener will help this, but I've heard hardener is some pretty nasty stuff and has a really short shelf life after it is opened. How long does it last, and what sort of respirator-type thing do I need to safely use it?

Anybody got reasonably-priced suggestions for acrylic enamel? My dad has a crappy sears gun that I've been using for primer and paint with halfway decent results, and an HVLP gun we've never tried. We want to get some practice, as I have an Original I'd like to restore, and my dad has a couple of Farmalls to restore. I've got a 100 to practice on before I do the O.

[Eagle Keeper]

Matt, the hardener really works well. I never heard any bad things about shooting hardener. Now shooting two part urethane is bad news. I stay away from it. Practice with the HLVP, because is really lays down the paint. If you start to see it orange peel,,,stop ! It's getting ready to run. I know that doesn't make sense, but it's true. Give it an hour and it will lay out.

Originally Posted by Matt G.

While we're on this subject....I've got to paint my loader when I install it on my 782. At the same time, I've got some wheels and odds and ends that I want to paint the same shade of white. I've got most of a quart of Valspar IH white that I have used to paint mower decks and a Brinly plow. I've also got most of a quart of primer for use with that paint. I'd like to use some better paint, but I need something reasonably-priced that will last. First off though, I've never used hardener with the paint I already have, and it takes probably 3 months to fully cure. I know hardener will help this, but I've heard hardener is some pretty nasty stuff and has a really short shelf life after it is opened. How long does it last, and what sort of respirator-type thing do I need to safely use it?

Anybody got reasonably-priced suggestions for acrylic enamel? My dad has a crappy sears gun that I've been using for primer and paint with halfway decent results, and an HVLP gun we've never tried. We want to get some practice, as I have an Original I'd like to restore, and my dad has a couple of Farmalls to restore. I've got a 100 to practice on before I do the O.

This is exactly why I suggested in another thread no to use this type of material.

Acrylic enamel-

8 parts paint
4 parts reducer
1 part 'wet look' hardner and if you want it to cure a little faster then push the hardner just a bit.

Don't be intimidated by using a catylist product.

FULL cure time should be around 72 hours however small parts may be baked after 24 hours for a super hard finish.

Scott

Agreed on the HVLP but also you'll need a continous running HVLP compressor and let the compressor run for a few minutes to get up to temp as it's the warm air that helps too.

Scott

[Randy Littrell]

Originally Posted by murphycc

Agreed on the HVLP but also you'll need a continous running HVLP compressor and let the compressor run for a few minutes to get up to temp as it's the warm air that helps too.

Scott

The hvlp guns today don't use the special compressor, they just use your regular air supply. We had a one those first hvlp guns with its own air supply over 20 years ago, and the air heating up was a problem. It made the paint dry too fast and caused a lot of dry spray and orange peel.



Randy