1864 red charge light comes on - Page 2

J-Mech · #11 10-28-2014, 09:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gt383mag

Sam arent those gauges all mechanical? how did you install the temp gauge into the engine looked at mine dont seem to be anywhere to install that big sender bulb

Put a pipe nipple in to move it out a little. Easy-peezy.

FrankF3 · #12 10-28-2014, 11:19 PM

I checked through my files. I found 3 pages for the 2182 schematics. I know this is not an 1864 but maybe this can help you out and the same fix could apply.The first page is the main schematic, the second page is the instruments panel schematic and the THIRD I find is the MOST interesting and may help you out the most. It covers adding relays to SOLVE Voltage problems.

Hope this helps you out.

Come to think of it, the fix listed under item # 3 may help a lot of cubs out that have the charging light that is always on. Basically 2 relays are being added, 1 to take care of a starter solenoid problem, the second relay along with some wiring changes addresses the AMP light on the dash being lit. A New wire is run from the yellow wire on the voltage regulator and connects DIRECTLY to the input wire on the voltage sensor. The second relay connects to this wire and in turn connects to +12V from the battery right at the solenoid after the fuse. The red/white wire at the connector for the regulator is pulled from the connector and taped up.

What REALLY puzzles me is the operation of the Voltage Sensor. When the modifications indicated are made, there doesn't appear to be a voltage supply anymore going to the hour meter, fuel solenoid, water temp bulb, Fuel Sensor bulb and oil sensor bulb. Would the last wire on the Voltage Sensor (the white wire), now supply voltage to these items through the Amp indicator bulb?
Attached Images

Sam Mac · #13 10-29-2014, 06:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gt383mag

Sam, Aren't those gauges all mechanical? How did you install the temp gauge into the engine? I looked at mine, don't seem to be anywhere to install that big sender bulb.

I drilled out the original temp sender location and re tapped it. Then I put the original sender in the head.

Sam Mac · #14 10-29-2014, 07:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by poolenglish

I will check the voltage today, I will have to figure out where the rectifier is on the 18 horse magnum horizontal shafted engine probably. THANKS!

The rectifier is mounted to the blower housing, lower left side as you're sitting on the tractor. Circled in red in this pic.

Oak · #15 10-29-2014, 12:09 PM

Frank, I noticed that a few years ago when I was working on my 2182. The schematic is wrong. I think(not 100% sure)that the red/white wire leaving the ignition switch is connected to the orange wire (not jumping over it as shown) and powering the solenoid, hour meter, amp and fuel lights. I'm thinking that that will work correctly, is that how you see it? ****sorry, back to the op now

FrankF3 · #16 10-29-2014, 12:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Oak

Frank, I noticed that a few years ago when I was working on my 2182. The schematic is wrong. I think(not 100% sure)that the red/white wire leaving the ignition switch is connected to the orange wire (not jumping over it as shown) and powering the solenoid, hour meter, amp and fuel lights. I'm thinking that that will work correctly, is that how you see it? ****sorry, back to the op now

the way I read it, the red/white wire does connect to the orange wire via either the seat switch or the brake switch. Both are normally open and close on stepping on the brake or sitting on the seat. I have yet to try and implement the changes with relays that I found in a CC wiring manual. The fixes are supposed to take care of the flickering red charging light and a no start condition where the solenoid just clicks. I haven't tried this yet, so your results may vary. It does seem promising and could take care of a few bugs. Now back to the original post...

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/a...1&d=1414600878

Oak · #17 10-29-2014, 12:55 PM

I agree about that Frank. Where does it get the 12 volts from to power the fuel solenoid and hour meter? I'm missing something.

FrankF3 · #18 10-29-2014, 02:08 PM

I think the engineer who designed that schematic got lost in the Bermuda Triangle......

In looking at a schematic of a 2284, the "B" terminal of the start switch (Black) is a fused +12V battery lead. While in the run position, the "B" terminal connects to the "R" terminal (red/white). Tracing red/white to the engine connector, there are 2 red wires on the engine side of the connector and a diode connected to EACH terminal that end up connecting (and supplying power) to the fuel solenoid. Alternator output is also tied to this first lead, also supplying power. During starting, while the starter is engaged, the second wire I mentioned previously seems to supply power to the fuel solenoid through the diode while in this state. Whether this can be adapted or traced on the 2182 is another story.

Sam Mac · #19 10-29-2014, 06:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FrankF3

I think the engineer who designed that schematic got lost in the Bermuda Triangle......

In looking at a schematic of a 2284, the "B" terminal of the start switch (Black) is a fused +12V battery lead. While in the run position, the "B" terminal connects to the "R" terminal (red/white). Tracing red/white to the engine connector, there are 2 red wires on the engine side of the connector and a diode connected to EACH terminal that end up connecting (and supplying power) to the fuel solenoid. Alternator output is also tied to this first lead, also supplying power. During starting, while the starter is engaged, the second wire I mentioned previously seems to supply power to the fuel solenoid through the diode while in this state. Whether this can be adapted or traced on the 2182 is another story.

I took a long look at that diagram, then I threw my 2182 wiring harness in the trash can. Made my own, it works and it doesn't have anything that doesn't need to be there. Sorry I can't share it with you guys but it lacks a few things.

mulerrich · #20 10-29-2014, 08:36 PM

I had the same problem this summer. Turns out the PTO bearing was going bad. Took more juice from the alternator to keep the clutch engaged against the friction of the bad bearing. Discovered the problem when the bearing froze stopping the engine dead. After installing a new PTO, the battery lite stays off and the battery stays charged.