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  #11  
Old 05-22-2014, 10:04 AM
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kostendorf kostendorf is offline
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You can also make one of these or buy them from extreme works and hang some cast lifting weights on them.

Cub%20Cadet%20Axle%20Extensions.jpg

P1030556.jpg
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1977 1650 with cast iron lower grill housing, cast iron oil pan, 54" push-snow blade, rear blade, disc-harrow, 44c and 48" decks, Two cultivators, #1 tiller with both extensions, loaded tires, 75' weights and chains, #2 cart.
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  #12  
Old 05-22-2014, 10:43 AM
specthompson specthompson is offline
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I guess I could use a steel rod of some sort and attatch it to the rear lift holes and have a bracket sit on the hitch bracket on the rear end then cast some concrete weights to slide onto the bar
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  #13  
Old 05-22-2014, 10:46 AM
Yosemite Sam Yosemite Sam is offline
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I push a fair amount of snow in the winter (area wise) when we get it.

I've never used anything except loaded turf tires with chains.

Everywhere I move snow is gravel, no asphalt or concrete, not sure how much difference that makes. Unless I'm pushing a big pile back, I could push a pretty heave snow and never spin a tire.

I too don't care for the idea of extra weight on the axles and rear wheel bearings.

For what it's worth, I really hate the cold weather, but pushing snow is about the most fun you can have on a Cub.
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  #14  
Old 05-22-2014, 11:26 AM
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Berwil Berwil is offline
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I made a bracket for 2 solid cinder blocks that bolts to the rear an sits on the hitch. Works well enough to balance a qa42 and give good traction with chains. I have used it 2 winters, but would ultimately like to replace it with an extra set of loaded turf tires with chains or loaded ags that I can bolt on for winter and take off for tilling/mowing. I do add a tie down strap around it to keep the top block from bouncing out.

image.jpg

Bill
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  #15  
Old 05-22-2014, 11:28 AM
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Berwil Berwil is offline
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Pic of the bracket, phone only let's 1 pic per post

image.jpg

Bill
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  #16  
Old 05-22-2014, 12:33 PM
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kostendorf kostendorf is offline
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I'm experimenting all the time and this setup is what I used this year. 75# weights and chains with a 54" blade. I now have loaded tires and chains. On both setups I did not spin tires. And I have lots of gravel driveway with hills.

P1030484.jpg

P1030486.jpg

P1030490.jpg
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1977 1650 with cast iron lower grill housing, cast iron oil pan, 54" push-snow blade, rear blade, disc-harrow, 44c and 48" decks, Two cultivators, #1 tiller with both extensions, loaded tires, 75' weights and chains, #2 cart.
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  #17  
Old 05-22-2014, 02:20 PM
Maxwelhse Maxwelhse is offline
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Time for me to go on a mini-rant.... I don't like weight boxes because you're putting the weight on the entire tractor (the frame, axles, bearings, etc).

That's the end of my rant.

Anyhow, CHAINS will make more of a difference than weights in my experience. You might try out some chains before you invest anything on weights (assuming you don't have any now).

With all of that said, I bought real IH weights just because I wanted them.. They were about $100. If I were on a budget at the time and NEEDED the weights, I would have probably gotten some weight set weights on CL and made them fit the wheels.
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  #18  
Old 05-22-2014, 02:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OffTime View Post
My brother just got done making wheel weights to go in the wheels of his Wheel Horse. However, they weigh about 90 - 92 lbs each and cost a total of $200 just for the bare steel.
I've thought of making a kind of a bucket/mold that would bolt into the wheel into the four bolt holes provided. Then I would go to the local tire shop and ask for two buckets of old, used tire balancing weights. Dump the weights into something that would handle the heat and melt the weights down. Since lead is heavier than steel, the steel clips in the weights should float to the top. I should be able to dip out the clips from the top. Then I would pour the molten lead into the mold and let it cool. Then just leave the steel mold around the lead as a way to hold them into the wheel, and presto, you have lead wheel weights.
BTW, I haven't yet tried it, so I'm not sure how it would work, but I can't imagine that it would cost much.
Matthew I have 2 weights like you are describing that I have been told are homemade but they have reliefs for valve stems and fit perfect. They feel like at least 50 to 75 lbs each. Not sure where you are in GA? You close to FL border?
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  #19  
Old 05-23-2014, 12:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxwelhse View Post
Time for me to go on a mini-rant.... I don't like weight boxes because you're putting the weight on the entire tractor (the frame, axles, bearings, etc).
Agree
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  #20  
Old 05-23-2014, 07:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alvy View Post
Matthew Not sure where you are in GA? You close to FL border?
Alvy, I am in Waynesboro, GA. That puts me about 3.5 to 4 hours to the closest Florida border. I think I have something like 7 hours to Pensacola. What part of Florida are you located? Would you ever make it to the Sunbelt Expo in Moultrie, GA every Oct? I work as an AG mechanic, and I try to make it to the expo every 2 years or so just to help keep up with what is happening out there. Maybe that would be a meeting point for us.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxwelhse View Post
Time for me to go on a mini-rant.... I don't like weight boxes because you're putting the weight on the entire tractor (the frame, axles, bearings, etc).
Definitely the place to have weights is at the point of contact with the ground (tires). Be it liquid or solid weights doesn't really matter. You will get a lower center of gravity and better stability of the machine on slopes, including ditch banks. Frame weights are OK, but I would like to limit that. For those people that have their gut ballasted to 300+ lbs, I think that is enough frame weight. My gut isn't that big (yet).
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

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