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#11
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Sorry to hear the numbers on the compression Bob. It has been awhile
since I worked on mine but I believe. The tin you can't get off, only comes off if you pull the engine. I would guess someone out here has figured out a way to pull the heads and jugs with engine in but I wouldn't even think about attempting. I would bet it would take less effort to just pull the engine. However I do understand that kind of project isn't always doable. Good luck with what you decide. Ken |
#12
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Quote:
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582, 682, 782, 782D, 1282, 1050, 1210 x 2, 1711, and 1811 |
#13
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When you get the engine out ( not a difficult job)
take off the heads, intake/exhaust manifolds, then the cylinders. just like any other engine. FWIW the valves have no adjustment, one precision grinds the stems, with the valve grinder to get correct clearance.(or a lathe with tool post grinder) ---------just so you know before hand. Don't mix up the valves or you will be causing a lot of extra work in setting the clearance. And when fitting up the valve clearance, leave the valve seals off till you get the clearance set or you will ruin them. And don't give stupid money for those intake seals. IIRR, inline 6 Cyl fords of late 60's'early 70's, use same seals for a couple dollers not $20 + each some ask. Read the service manual!! Do understand it ain't an afternoon job and you do need precision measuring devices, a ruler and caliper don't cut it. I've covered it all before on here. Go easy on the silly cone!!! Good luck, have fun |
#14
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1862 Oil Usage
Thanks George & 1711. Looks like I will have to do the compression check again. Throttle fully open, choke fully open but a cold engine 1st time. Don't think it will go any where near 90 psi but worth a try with a warm engine. I really don't want to pull the engine. I get very dizzy when lying on my back and trying to work. Old age sucks. Do you think pulling the jugs and getting it back together is doable without pulling the engine? Engine runs great as is. No putt at exhaust or carb. Thanks for your help and have a great day.
Bob |
#15
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If it is does not smoke (blue), you may be okay. Also the plugs look dry. I recommend to change the oil and filter before you do another compression check. If it does not sit in the cold, put 30W oil in.
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Ken Old fart - new to Cub Cadets Looking for a nice original low hour 1772 or 1782 |
#16
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Quote:
Also, IF you encounter low readings, squirt some 30W oil in the spark plug hole, then retest. If the readings rise quite a bit, then you have a ring seal issue. If the readings don't improve, you have a valve sealing issue.
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582, 682, 782, 782D, 1282, 1050, 1210 x 2, 1711, and 1811 |
#17
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Excellent suggestion!
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Ken Old fart - new to Cub Cadets Looking for a nice original low hour 1772 or 1782 |
#18
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I have pulled the jugs off of them only on the bench. If the rotating assembly is fine inc. cam and governor gear, then the beauty of these flat twins is you can fully service the bores without disturbing the crank and cam.
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582, 682, 782, 782D, 1282, 1050, 1210 x 2, 1711, and 1811 |
#19
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Pulling the engine is the way to go, trust me, its easy and no underside work, Most all is sitting on a stool ( might be difficult getting up), Ha,LOL!
Ok not so funny for us "recycled teenagers" (seenagers) Do not try in frame cyl removal, it just is trying to pull yerself up by yer boot straps,--- ok worse than that. When you remove the exhaust manifolds keep them attached to the muffler. Mufflers are old and rusty and don't like divorcing the manifold spigots. Heat the manifold nuts so you don't have to deal with broken studs Also the pto clutch 2 top bolts/studs need dealt with to remove the muffler. You will need 2 exhaust-to-cyl. gaskets when going back together. Cylinders are RTV'd to the crankcase, no gaskets. Heads to cyl do use head gaskets no reusing them and be sure to retorque after running on the bench, bring them up to temp 2X then retorquing, or you will be replacing then. You can bring them up to temp with tins off, just don't get carried away. Oh boy here I go again, you prolly know all this. |
#20
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1862 Oil use
Thanks to all that replied. All very helpful. I do have a printed copy of service manual. Thanks for the advise to squirt oil in cyls. before compression test. I knew to do that at one time but had just forgotten. George, I do have a chain pulley and steel beam running across ceiling of my garage. I know this project will take me months to complete. I don't see where any oil has leaked from the front or back of engine. Governor seems to be working fine. Will know more about oil leakage when engine is sitting on work bench. I need to start reading the service manual and hope I can remember what I read. Thanks to all and have a great day.
Bob |
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