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  #11  
Old 12-20-2015, 08:07 PM
twoton twoton is offline
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That's great, automatic generator and pool in the background. Life is good.
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  #12  
Old 12-20-2015, 10:56 PM
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jaynjeep jaynjeep is offline
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Leave it to Sam to have the "cats meow" of all generators!!
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40 years of Using and playing with IH Cub Cadets!

Proud owner of the following:
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  #13  
Old 12-22-2015, 08:31 PM
twoton twoton is offline
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Anyone know if this mule drive will fit a quietline? May be the start to my project.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cub-Cadet-68...UAAOSwstxVCF1y
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  #14  
Old 12-22-2015, 09:43 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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It will work for what you want it for.
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  #15  
Old 12-23-2015, 02:10 AM
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Most cheap Chinese made generator/alternator produce crappy 60Hz sinusoidal wave at 3600 rpm (Oscilloscope test reading..), you better get a Japanese or old American made unit.

Using the old K series Kohler of a QL is another questionable choice, efficiencies is not their "Forté", most modern OHV engine do a lot better but since you need to use what's available as cheap has possible, you can probably power your alt/gen with the 16hp running at 1800rpm using a 1 for 2 ratio, this way you save a bit on gas and you cut the noise a bit too.
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1988 2072 401 54" hyd angled blade
1988 1872 364 snowblower/C50 deck
1976 1650/QA42A blower/44A deck/standby
1976 1450TS/Sleeve hitch/44A deck/in storage
1963 100 (red)/in storage
2010 Kubota 2380-2/42" infinity deck (engine swap)
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  #16  
Old 12-23-2015, 06:42 AM
twoton twoton is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
It will work for what you want it for.
Thanks Jon.

Quote:
Originally Posted by OldSkull View Post
Most cheap Chinese made generator/alternator produce crappy 60Hz sinusoidal wave at 3600 rpm (Oscilloscope test reading..), you better get a Japanese or old American made unit.

Using the old K series Kohler of a QL is another questionable choice, efficiencies is not their "Forté", most modern OHV engine do a lot better but since you need to use what's available as cheap has possible, you can probably power your alt/gen with the 16hp running at 1800rpm using a 1 for 2 ratio, this way you save a bit on gas and you cut the noise a bit too.
Thanks OldSkull, I appreciate the tru sine wave stuff and all that, never really wanted to get one of those HF jobbers. Had the same idea about the 2 to 1 ratio and lower rpm, maybe smaller wattage gen head, something to just run a saw and drill or some thing like that.

Thanks guys, and Merry Christmas.
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  #17  
Old 12-23-2015, 09:11 AM
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ol'George ol'George is offline
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Things to ponder:
The kool factor of building a accessory to go on your tractor is very rewarding.
sometimes it is practical sometimes not.
Being older now, I tend to not fuss as much as I once did.
It takes a bit to install/remove the power generator on the front of a tractor
after you have it finished,
much like a snow thrower/blower.
I wonder if a 2 to 1 ratio is practical?? sounds like a lot to expect of an engine unless the generator head is designed to run @ 1800.
Today I see a lot of generator sets sell quite inexpensively @ auctions C/ list
& local papers. $150-$250
I would think it less expensive/easier to obtain a stand alone unit that can be pulled or set in a cart behind the tractor.
or even on a rear mounted " carryall"
That would free up the tractor to go-fer things/tools etc.
Just some thoughts, not to rain on your parade.
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  #18  
Old 12-23-2015, 06:15 PM
twoton twoton is offline
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Yes sir ol'George, you are right there with some good points. Thanks for your thoughts. And Merry Christmas!
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  #19  
Old 12-23-2015, 06:38 PM
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OldSkull OldSkull is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ol'George View Post
Things to ponder:
The kool factor of building a accessory to go on your tractor is very rewarding.
sometimes it is practical sometimes not.
Being older now, I tend to not fuss as much as I once did.
It takes a bit to install/remove the power generator on the front of a tractor
after you have it finished,
much like a snow thrower/blower.
I wonder if a 2 to 1 ratio is practical?? sounds like a lot to expect of an engine unless the generator head is designed to run @ 1800.
Today I see a lot of generator sets sell quite inexpensively @ auctions C/ list
& local papers. $150-$250
I would think it less expensive/easier to obtain a stand alone unit that can be pulled or set in a cart behind the tractor.
or even on a rear mounted " carryall"
That would free up the tractor to go-fer things/tools etc.
Just some thoughts, not to rain on your parade.
George a 1800rpm generator is a 4 poles unit and they cost a leg+a arm but I'm sure your already know it so I cut the crap and just let's call those 3600rpm unit "Standard head unit", most companies build them to produce a constant 500W per HP since 1hp=745.7 watts we have a safe margin.

I think the 16hp of the 1650 got enough torque to power a 4 to 5Kw gen
head at 1800rpm using a 1 to 2 ratio pulley but there is no way this setup can be efficient or practical like a stand alone unit.
(Test need to be done first so I speculate here)

This is just a fun project you can rely on in a emergency case or just to power some outdoor stuff for a short period of time, a cheap "Life saver" if you prefer.

Oups...Almost forget! Merry Christmas all !
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Gilles.
1988 2072 401 54" hyd angled blade
1988 1872 364 snowblower/C50 deck
1976 1650/QA42A blower/44A deck/standby
1976 1450TS/Sleeve hitch/44A deck/in storage
1963 100 (red)/in storage
2010 Kubota 2380-2/42" infinity deck (engine swap)
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  #20  
Old 12-23-2015, 09:54 PM
fourinchdragslicks fourinchdragslicks is offline
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Unless you are dead set on the Generator look/setup, it may not be a bad idea to use a heavy alternator w/ battery and inverter. Since you are not likely to be continuously running full power on anything you are going to hook up to the alternator in either an emergency situation or "normal/play/work"use. This allows you to run the motor at a constant power level, charging the battery and you let the battery be the buffer soaking up the peak loads when a motor kicks on. Depending on how electrically savvy you are, you could work out a circuit to kick the throttle between full, and low/idle based on the battery voltage. Electronics need clean 60Hz "pure sine" power (computers, tv's, gadget type stuff. Depending on exactly what you are looking at running this could include other "usually" not picky items) Electric motors are less fussy, if you have a "cheap" fridge/freezer, just need to run a blower for an older gas furnace, or wood furnace/boiler you can use a less expensive inverter for these type of loads.
Of course, you need to do the homework on what you want to run.

$$$ will dictate not only how clean your power is, but also your power effeciency, this goes for an inverter or a generator head. Do your research, and build what works for you/what you want. Either way, have fun!
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