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  #11  
Old 02-27-2016, 12:28 AM
BucknastyMiniRod BucknastyMiniRod is offline
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Are there any simple swap outs if I find something more reasonable than parts to re build? Are these fairly simple to rebuild? I've done 2 stroke dirt bikes, small block chevys, and a few larger diesels but never been in a little kohler yet.
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  #12  
Old 02-27-2016, 08:28 AM
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ol'George ol'George is offline
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The m-18 is an updated version of the series 2, and addressed all the problems the previous models had.
It is a direct bolt-in except for a small electrical change to be able to kill the magneto.
If you have done other overhauls as you mention, a little kohler is not going to be a problem.
Might just need a re ring or a rebore oversize piston/rings.
if you decide to attempt it, we are here to help.
Some fellows repower with a new V twin, some adaption is required,myself I just like old skool flathead opposed.
The "V" twins are more fuel efficient, but a little less torque, less emissions.
---it is a crap shoot

Is it slobbering oil into the aircleaner? if so, sometimes it is just the crankcase vent valve located in the valve cover.
As far as compression they push around #90, are your plugs fowled?
Do as others have suggested as far as cleaning the battery cables @ all attachment points and if you have a "smoking seat area" you have found the smoking gun as far as the high resistance connection.
An intermittent clicking can be a sol. going bad but also a bad/corroded connection.
Check the easy/no cost things first.
As far as parts, they are still avail. some are more costly than others but there are aftermarket alternatives.
Don't continually crank any engine without giving the starter time to cool, otherwise you will be replacing it right quick!!
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  #13  
Old 02-27-2016, 09:10 AM
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Your low compression and heavy oil consumption sounds really like a rebuild is in order. I'll throw this out though, the M20 in my 2072 was getting oil in the air filter. Turns out the breather was bad. Kohler redesigned this from an umbrella valve to a reed valve if I remember correct. I have no idea how bad this can cause oil consumption, just something you may want to check, especially if you go ahead and rebuild your engine. Search the site, maybe under engines, for other posts on this.
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  #14  
Old 02-27-2016, 05:08 PM
BucknastyMiniRod BucknastyMiniRod is offline
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Oil leak appears to be from behind the front pto. How do I check the umbrella valve? I guess I need to find a parts and service manual.
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  #15  
Old 02-27-2016, 07:15 PM
BucknastyMiniRod BucknastyMiniRod is offline
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So I'm striping my 1711 down to clean up wiring, get it fired up and further diagnose what I need for the motor. I ran across a cub 1200 with a 38" deck and a snowblower with only 350 hours on the clock. I have been looking for a 12hp for my daughter to run in stock classes pulling in a few years. This seems like a decent deal but it would be a replacement for the 1711 for now until my daughter gets it for pulling. I want to fix what I have instead of pick something up that could also have problems but that seems like a good deal. I don't know what to do. Can't afford both.
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  #16  
Old 02-27-2016, 08:07 PM
BucknastyMiniRod BucknastyMiniRod is offline
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Alright good news is I got her fired up. Warm compression test results, left side 65 spark plug looks normal. Right side 70 spark plug has really thick hard light brown deposits on it. If I pull the oil filler cap off while running it's blowing out a high volume of air. Sounds like I need to pull the motor and see what I'm working with. Do these usually have a little rattle to them running or think I'm looking at crank bearings also?
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  #17  
Old 02-27-2016, 08:21 PM
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Sam Mac Sam Mac is offline
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I hate to give you the bad news but a KT is not worth rebuilding. I suggest that you look at this thread.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=42454
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  #18  
Old 02-27-2016, 09:12 PM
BucknastyMiniRod BucknastyMiniRod is offline
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Well then the ol girls future isn't looking good. I'm not putting a 1400 dollar replacement motor in a 500 dollar tractor.
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  #19  
Old 02-27-2016, 10:09 PM
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A high volume of air is normal with the fill cap off, that is why they have a valve in the rocker box under the vent to carb tube.
With both pistons going out and in @ the same time, you are going to have a large volume of air in motion.
Down load a free service manual from kohler if you like, the link is on our sight.
It is a difference of opinion as far as if it is worth overhauling.
A KT17 series 1 is not worth overhauling as it has a splash oil system, not a full pressure system like the series 2 and magnum.
But to each his own, I personally like m-18's
Your compression test was hopefully done with throttle open, otherwise it will be low.
Like I posted before, a good engine is in the vicinity of #90 with both being within 10%
Good luck with what ever you decide.
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  #20  
Old 02-28-2016, 09:35 AM
BucknastyMiniRod BucknastyMiniRod is offline
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Will a kohler command 18 fit in from a 2185? Or is it just the m18 I'm looking for?
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